Question about 1999 Ford Expedition
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
5.4 triton, spark plugs are under valve cover have to disconnect harnesses and make room to remove cover pull bolts from cover, unbolt coil from each plug change plug reinstall coil, then change valve cover seal and rebolt down, reconnect harneses and then u realize u have other side to do still... yes one of hardest plugs to change in any vehicle
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
This is an easy (well, relative easy) fix.
If you can remove the lower dash panel where the fuses are...
Put the key in the ignition and move the shift lever as you look below the steering column.
You'll see the mechanism moving. There is a connecting flange that has a couple of hex headed screws attaching the two pieces of the linkage together.
I just did this yesterday... if you can tolerate standing on your head for a bit, feel with a finger to find the hex head. These things come loose over time and it just takes a hex wrench.. not sure of the size but it's about 3/1t6 of and inch.. be patient and remember that because this is on the backside of the flange, you'll be tightening it in what seems like the opposite direction than normal..
There's not alot of clearance but if you're patient, you'll be able to tighten these back up.
The linkage and park and starting switch will all work great when they retighten..
(My 2001 Excursion had this exact same issue... it's fixed!) Let me know how you do and if I can help ..
Posted on Jun 09, 2010
I recently changed them and it was a job when you have to crawl up and inside the engine area. But anyways, I started out by buying the E3 plugs, which don't have to be gapped and they do save a little gas plus increased in a little more power. (not much), These set me back $56. go with a basic motorcraft platinum or bosch platinum. I then removed the top engine cover, removed bolts for fuel rail and easily pulled the injector rail up (you will see to replace the o-rings on the injectors by some people, but if you're careful you don't have to.) This gives you the room you need at the back of the engine to remove the plugs. I started at the front by removing the small bolt holding the coil in place, then removing the the coil/wire with a boot removal tool. ( Again you don't need this tool, but it comes in handy at the back plugs). After removing the coil, I simply remove the plug, Apply anti-seize to the new one and install plug. I then apply Di-Electric grease to the inside of the coil boot to prevent moisture getting in. I then install the coil back down on the plug and tighten down and move on to the next.
1. you will need a swivel for the socket
2. you will need an extension, ( I use a long 8" extension)
3. Anti-Seize Grease
4. Di-Electric Grease
5. If installing a plug to be gapped it is .54
6. After installing, check for fuel leaks at the injectors.
It took me about 1 1/2 hours to replace all plugs and a dealer charges about $375. Good Luck if you need any further help get back to me and I'll help any I can.
Posted on Aug 17, 2010
first cylinder on driver side . (fords cylinders number1 is passenger side so is number 2,3,4,& then on driver side is number 5,6,7,8 )
Posted on Nov 05, 2010
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