Question about 2003 Ford Excursion

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Instrument panel went dead

My alternator went on the fritz (second one - goes out once a year), and my batteries ran down. Didn't notice until last couple of starts, and then the instrument panel went dead, as did the auto head-lights. Everything else appears to work fine. I had both batteries pulled, charged and checked, both good, reinstalled. Still no instrument panel or auto head-lights. Checked alternator, found that it wasn't delivering enough voltage again, hence the batteries losing charge. I checked both fuses (35, 41), they are good (have a fuse checker). Ground wire looks good from battery to engine. Any ideas?

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  • Jim DeBoer Jun 27, 2013

    thanks on the ford found blown fuse spot 45 thanks again

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Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

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I have a 01 grand am gt with the 3400 motor runs and drives great but all the gauges on the dash stoped working also the auto high lights stoped works i checked all the fuses and all the grounds can any one help

Posted on Mar 12, 2013

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2003 excursion 2wd xlt 5.4L died the day after instrument gauges, alternator & battery went bad (around 11 plus volts). Under-Dash instrument fuses #35 & #41 were OK. Put in new battery & a rebuilt alternator, gauges were still bad. Car died again the next day from alternator/battery. Recharged brand new 930 amp battery. Found small ignition fuse blown under dash, possibly #27 or #45. Check all your under dash fuses. Replaced the blown fuse & the gauges started working. Tested alternator while running at 13.8 volts. I possibly wasted $250 on a rebuilt alternator when gauge & alternator problems may have been due to a small blown under-dash fuse. Will see if battery remains charged during next few days. I have a trans. temp. gauge & charging system warning light in place of alternator gauge. Warning light didn't glow likely due to the blown fuse. Experts please feel free to comment.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

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I am not sure why your question is here in this area I will try to answer, if the fuse is good for the headlamps and the auto sensor then you may have burned out the instrument cluster voltage regulator, this is located on the back of cluster so it has to be removed to be tested. Just so you know as voltage drops amperage draw goes up so this can cause the weakest link to fail, since the fuse should have been the first thing then the next thing would be the cluster voltage regulator, they are not to hard to install and are quite expensive. I do believe that the head light sensor is ran off of the instrument cluster voltage regulator, to test you need to remove the cluster panel to test there is also a cluster panel fuse on some models as well, if you want to tackle this let me know and you will need to buy a subscription to alldatadiy.com to find the screws to remove the cluster system.

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

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