Question about 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Mechanic seems rather odd considering it is the function of a mechanic to discover what is wrong. If owners knew what was wrong with their vehicles there wouldn't be much point in mechanics serving a four year apprenticeship learning the core skills and taking loads of exams. I was in training for seven years and I think I managed to scratch the surface but very little more than that.
If it sounds like metal-to-metal contact, it probably is though the noise doesn't necessarily account for the poor ride. You have described symptoms that seem like a car with worn shock absorbers...
It is worth noting not all shock absorbers are the same. I once fitted Gabriel brand shocks to a car and the resulting ride was so teeth-rattlingly hard it made the former ride seem luxurious by comparison.
It is also worth noting that an unwise type mix can cause a most uncomfortable ride that one correspondent described as a sideways bounce.
Such things would not account for the knocking noises.
Modern vehicles tend not to be fitted with suspension bump stops but instead are fitted with similar hard foam components that act as auxilliary springs, often fitted on the piston rods of struts and semi-struts. These components are soon damaged if the car is driven with dud shocks, is heavily loaded or driven hard over rough ground.
Speculation is pointless. In reality the pathway to a diagnosis is for an experienced person to go for a drive and then take a look underneath.
Posted on May 28, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check sway bar. On some models as suspension sags, sway bar outer ends will contact the body, leaving a mark or dent just above the end, causing a bang over bumps. Only way to correct this is to change springs or add a spring lift.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
First, if the noise is from the upper part of the engine and is more of a tapping than a knock, likely you have a problem in the valvetrain, most often a bad lifter or worn rocker arm. If the noise is low, deep inside, the noise is from a bearing. This is generally accompanied by lower than normal oil pressure. Regardless of the underlying cause, correcting the cause will not stop the knock. To do that correctly, the engine needs to be removed and all crankshaft bearings and the crankshaft itself need to be replaced (crank can sometimes be "undercut" and thicker bearing shells can be used depending upon the amount of wear.) If caught very early, sometimes only one bearing can be replaced in-car, but in 99% of all cases I have ever seen, most will fail again, sometimes more severely if done this way.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
You likely did damage the t case internally. You may be able to find a replacement in a scrapyard far cheaper than rebuild parts will cost, and, it then becomes just an r&r job. You may want to keep the old unit (if there isn't a high core charge) and at your leisure you can take it apart and rebuild it, then, re-sell the scrapyard one if you don't need it. I'd also definitely make sure you haven't broken a tooth on the ring and pinion in the front diff before going further with anything though.
Remember...when changing differentials you MUST match the exact gear ratio front and rear or you will destroy the transfer case.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
SOURCE: FRONT TIRE BOUNCE AT 40-50 MPH
relace your shocks. the design of any dampner(strut or shock design) is to return the wheel to the road for handling and safety. when the shock is worn out is with continue to bounce like a basketball. it has no more strength to return to wheel to the road. a common misconception is that they are there to absorb, not true. the springs or torsion bars are there to absorb and create ride height. the shock does nothing more then return the wheel to the road. simple and inexpensive.
Posted on Feb 02, 2010
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