Question about 1994 Toyota Pickup
I had the same problem with my chevy s 10 I got a new rotor button and new distributor cap and it fired right up!! what happens is over time the gold covering on the rotor button wares off and no longers sends a spark to the plugs. A new rotor button is in the 5 to 10 dollar range and a new distributor cap is arounds 20 to 30 dollars!! good luck bro,
Posted on May 14, 2009
Get a scanner you may have an ECM issue, it is possible that u some drivers arent working.
Posted on May 30, 2010
Check the crankshaft positioning sensor or the egr vavle might be stuck all the way open
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
If it's a matter of timing then i would suggest remove the #1 spark plug. then manually turn the crank until it reaches top dead center(i use a 1/4 drive 6 inch extension) place in plug hole and you should feel the top of the piston. then take your distributor and replace it with the rotor pointing in the # plug position your timing should be right. From what you describe it seems you could be 180 degrees off on the timing
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
ok if it's cranking and you got spark check the fuel pump relays to make sure they are still good. mostimes people assume because they are not getting gas that the fuel pump is out but alot of times the relays are bad. onother easy way is add a lil gas or starter fluid to the intake side like in a air filter box or the rubber tub to the throttle body if it fires you know that it's on the inflow of the fuel side but i would check those relays first. I hope this helps.
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well if thats all it takes to get it right than I have it right cause thats what I did.(except I used a coat hangar) I thought it just might be off cause when I went to adjust it to make sure it was right I misread the manual and thought it meant that their were two strokes involving the TDC but it was just saying on the exaughst stroke their would be no compression but the timeing marks would allign. So I must have the timing right SO how do I check compression and what else could my trouble be?
hm k what do the relays do exactly cause I know it wasnt getting gas cause the pump wasnt working (I dropped the tank and pulled the pump and everything just to find it wasnt getting power.) and I fixed it and its getting gas for sure and Ive also tried putting a little fuel in the intake like you just said I tried some carb cleaner with no result and I tried putting a little gas in their to the same result and then I put in enough to blow the whole thing up with yet the same result. and where would I find these relays if what I jsut told you hadnt eliminated the need to check them?
the crankshaft positioning sensor is built into the distributor I think so to test that would I jsut have some one crank it while I go at the wires with a test light? if yes what responce should I get from the light flash or solid? the egr valve doesnt apear to be a valve at all as in their doesnt seem to be any moving mechanical parts it looks like a tube with a space ship looking part with a couple vacum hoses attached if Im reading the same thing in the book and looking at the same thing on my engine, so how do I go about unsticking it?
EGR valve is good. ive had it for...sveral months now and its starting to get cold out so im going to take another stab at fixing it myself. But ive discovered that if I let the truck sit for say a week or so and try to start it, it will fire on the first couple of cranks and then go back to just cranking. MY thoughts are that when I jumped the wiring across the dash because of the no power problem with the fuel pump I msut have jumped some sort of control that monitors the the gas input on the EFI cause the only thing I can think of is that its pouring so much gas in their that it floods before it gets a chance to fully fire up cause it smells and sounds like its just pouring gas in their non stop.
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