Question about Ultra Motorcycles
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Posted on Feb 15, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: lifter adjustment
IF I recall correctly, the Kawasaki valves are adjusted by shims as opposed to a lock-down screw or hydraulic lifters. The shims come in different thicknesses. As the valve parts wear, a change in shims is how the valves are adjusted.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
This can be a big zero on the fun scale, so get ready. First place your bike on a lift (borrowed or owned, just get one) with rear wheel off the ground. Now remove your air cleaner and maybe your filter. Now drop the pushrood tubes one at a time, not all at once (pick a jug only one). With the bike in gear and holding the pushrod tube up so you can see the bottom part of the push rod, rotate engine until you are on flat side of the cam. You'll know when the push rod is as low as it can be and the wheel moves a little and the push rod doesn't. Your push rods have a jam nut on them and the pushrod is not round in places you must loosen the jam nut and then holding both pieces of the pushrod you can screw the lower end of the push rod into the other piece. This will shorten the push rod. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THE JAM NUT. If you do you will be cussin for a month! Now you can shorten the push rod enough to get it out. Work only one cylinder at a time and yes note which push rod goes where as most HD ones have different diameter ends.
Soak you lifters in oil overnight, not for most of the morning or a few hours, but overnight. Once you get both push rods out use your fingers, a small pick, or what ever to pull the lifters out. Replace the lifters, O rings for push rod tubes, put the tubes over the push rod and looking at the lifters make absolutely sure they are in the lowest position they can be, adjust you push rods. If they are HD Screamin Eagle ones you extent the push rods to what we call zero lash, that is until they make firm contact with the lifter but are not compressing the lifter. this is just something you gotta do to figure out how. Then once you have zero lash HD sez unscrew or lengthen the push rod by holding the top piece with a wrench and unscrewing the bottom piece 3 and one half turns, then lock it up with the jam nut. Put push rod tubes together move to the next cyclinder.
IMPORTANT THINGS TO MAKE SURE YOU DO:
Work on a completely COLD bike!!
Soak lifters over night
Use new O rings
Adjust push rods absolutely at zero lash + 3.5 turns (if HD) when lifter is lowest in bore.
This is a painful process cause after things get a few hours on them you WILL want to go back in and readjust. I am truely sorry this is such a pain. I hope this helps and good luck,
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
Testimonial: "Good instructions-thanks. I did have to extend the rear cylinder rods after a short ride. When re-tightening, do I go the 3.5 again or just snug?"
I think the SE pushrods have a 32 TPI pitch on the threads. If so, with the tappet all the way down in it's bore, adjust the pushrod longer until it make contact with the tappet plunger. Now, continue to lengthen the pushrod by 18 flats or three turns. Allow the tappet to bleed down before you turn the engine over. When you can turn the pushrod with your fingers, you can safely turn the engine.
The object is to adjust the plunger in the hydraulic tappet to approximately the middle of it's travel. The tappest have about 0.200" of travel. So, you want to adjust the pushrod out until it has zero clearance then go another 0.100" inch. You can measure how much three turns lenghtens the pushrod before you install them just to make sure.
Posted on Jun 02, 2010
SOURCE: what is the adjustment for
When you adjust the pushrods on any H-D Evolution or later engine, you must compress the tappet by 0.100". According to the list that I have, you must turn the pushrod three complete turns (18 flats) to lengthen it this much. I'd double check your pushrods to make sure this is correct. Find a point where you can measure the pushrod and take a measurement using a dial caliper. Turn the pushrod to extend it by three full turns and remeasure the pushrod. It should be 0.100" longer.
To install your pushrods, bring one piston to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets on that cylinder are as low as they go in their bores. Install the pushrod with the pushrod tube into the head. Make sure you've got the O-rings in the head and the tappet block. Extend the pushrod by turning it with your fingers until it gets tight. Then, turn it three more turns using wrenches and lock the locknut. Do the same with the other pushrod. Let the engine sit and do not turn the engine until the tappets bleed down and you can again turn the pushrods with your fingers. This may take as long as ten minutes. Once you can turn the pushrods by hand. Bring the other cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets are at the low point in their bore. Install the other two pushrods the same as you did the first two and allow the engine to set until the tappets bleed down. Once you can spin the pushrods in your fingers. Finish installing the pushrod tubes.
Now, this is accurate provided your pushrods have a 32 threads per inch adjuster. If not, you must figure out how many "flats" that you have to turn the pushrod to lengthen it by 0.100". Substitute this number of flats in for the number of turns to lengthen the pushrod after you get it finger tight.
The tappet plunger has approx. 0.200" of travel in it. You want to adjust the pushrod so that the plunger in the tappet is about mid way in it's travel or 0.100" or there abouts.
Posted on Mar 15, 2011
There shouldn't be anything to putting the front wheel on your bike. On each side of the wheel, there is a seal and a "spacer" inside the seal. If this is spacer is in the seal on each side of your wheel, put the wheel between the forks and slide the axle in. The large end of the axle pulls all the way in against the "spacer" on that side and this pulls the "spacer" on the other side tight against the fork on the other side. Tighten the axle nut to 50-60 foot pounds and the clamp bolts to 25 foot pounds of torque. If you still want a diagram, the best I can do is to direct you to this site. http://www.bikebandit.com Select OEM parts, then choose your bike and go to the drawing for wheels.
Posted on Apr 13, 2011
Testimonial: "Thanks, I have been looking for a resource for information. "
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