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Questions & Answers
I have a three year old home with a noritz
bull ****! . If the heat exchanger is leaking, it should be under warranty. If you have and improper installation that should be the responibilty of the builder or his plumber. You may have some labor cost, but not the entire cost. contact your builder
on Feb 03, 2015
Blinking red light,
It seams alot of people have this same problem All must get ahold of manufacturer and report this it must be there pump's thank you for useing fixya
on Oct 09, 2014
Error code 14 shows on the remote for a noritz
This means the thermal fuse has broken and needs replacement. The thermal fuse is a white cord which wraps around the heat exchanger. It typically breaks if the unit is excessively dirty and sooted. Before the fuse is replaced you should make sure the unit is cleaned with compressed air and descaled.
on Apr 22, 2014
The service technican said the unit is completely
If I understand correctly, you have a tankless water heater.
And the water heater stopped working.
And a plumber stopped by and tested the unit.
Call the original installer.
If you had it professionally installed, call up the installer
The manufacturer will refer you to the installer >>> and the installer has to be certified by their company.
A few questions for you:
was that technician certified and trained by the manufacturer?
If you were to repair the heater, how much would it cost?
Was the technician saying that it was more expensive to repair than replace?
Did he say what was the cause?
Is the circuit board burned out?
Did the circuit board get wet?
Are there pool chemicals and bleach stored in the room that might cause the gas burner to fail?
If the tankless is electric, did the wires burn inside the unit?
Maybe the technician was using the old scare-em sales technique to get you to buy a new one from him.
The lack of information the technician left you makes me wonder his intent.
Tankless water heaters are a nuisance when they don't work because they are complicated systems, and the parts are not available at the hardware store. Your regular tank-type gas heaters have repair issues too, but they don't fail completely after just 4 years. Regular tank-type electric heaters cost more to operate, but the homeowner can repair it same-day with local parts from any hardware store.
on Nov 01, 2013
No hot water volume at shower until power is
follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
oubleshoot a thermostat:
- Shut off power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
- Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
- Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise
to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater
doesn't maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
- Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat
terminals as indicated in the owner's manual. Depending on the model and
the terminals tested, the tester should show infinity ( open) or about 0 ( closed).
- Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
- If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting
and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install
it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner's manual.
Test and replace a heating element:
Turn off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to
RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting
bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the
tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1
and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance
reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
To remove the element, first drain the heater.
Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:
- Disconnect power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
- Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
- Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is
hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power
off again and reopen the access panel.
- Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.
on Oct 09, 2013
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