20 Most Recent Your One Source Homeline Load Center, 200 Amp Questions & Answers


not as far as I know we use square d around this part of the world .

Your One Source... | Answered on Mar 31, 2017


I checked my code sheet, and only the ground bus is to be bonded to the box. The box comes with a screw that will bond the bus to the box through a bus mounting hole, the threaded hole is down there, behind the bus. The neutral does not get bonded to the box.

Your One Source... | Answered on Nov 24, 2013


For the neutral buss bar, a bonding screw goes through the buss bar into the box. Same for the ground buss bar. Usually, neutral does not meet ground until the meter, so there may only be a bonding screw for the ground buss bar. Look carefully, check with electricians.

Your One Source... | Answered on Nov 22, 2013


Get a letter from the manufacturer saying that the panel assembly and components meet all applicable National, State and Local codes. The inspector is an xss.

Your One Source... | Answered on Nov 21, 2013


Copy following link:
Scroll down to '120 volt subpanel'
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Your One Source... | Answered on Sep 17, 2012


If the installer didn't fill in the label inside the door you're relegated to turning one off and checking what turns off in the house. You can do this by yourself but it's a lot easier with someone in the house to tell you what shut off as you switch off each breaker in the box. Use things like plug-in lamps or hair dryers in outlets to know when they go dead.

Your One Source... | Answered on Nov 13, 2010


I presume you are identifying the power source as the power coming from the electric company. If this is the case, and you have no expertice in these matters, you should get a qualified electrician to bring the power in to the load center. This is a very dangerous task for a qualified person, and possibly terminal for a novice. Your power could be coming from a pole in the alley or an underground vault. You have not given sufficient information for either.

Your One Source... | Answered on Oct 12, 2010


I'm assuming since it's a Homeline panel you're using a HOM2100 breaker. If it stripping then you must have a short circuit in your 100A circuit, or the breaker is defective. Disconnect your load from the breaker, and turn main on. Be sure you have the correct load conductors connected to the breakers. Typically red and black on the breaker, white on neutral bar. Bare to ground bar

Your One Source... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


Theres a few different ways to set up the secondary panel. The most efficient way, in my opinion, would be to set it up as a subsidiary. This is a really great way to allow power to be shut off for sections of a house instead of killing everything. This requires wiring it to the main panel on a breaker which will serve as the main for the 100amp subsidiary. Obviously this will require that a comparable breaker be installed in the main 200 amp panel to support the new subsidiary 100 amp panel.
Here's where it gets tricky and you really should either consult or contract a licensed technician. Because the amperage rating does not dictate the amount of power that is supplied to your house on the primary line you are essentially using the new box as a splitter. The danger in this is that just like any common electrical outlet, the more stuff you plug into it the more likely you are to overload the circuit and risk catastrophic failure, like a house burning to the ground or worse.
Knowing that your panel is side by side, you should be fine with #2 AWG, I would confirm electrical code before installing and ensure that grounds are diverted to the main panel to avoid the risk of running live current through the otherwise 'safe' ground.
If you are installing the panel to increase the amount of breakers it is probably safe to assume that there has been some previous work done that fills up the main panel. I would strongly encourage you to talk to an electrician about your needs and the changes in your house that require the additional breaker slots. There is a certain amount of artistry involved in 'designing' the house and you could probably accomplish the same end result with one panel and a more efficient wiring plan.

Your One Source... | Answered on Mar 09, 2010


I think he cost of the panel and breakers would be the cheapest thing on your list. Your 4100 watt genny is tiny for a whole house, and if you are planning on a solar set up, you will need to convert to dc, so, I take it your 4100 genny is used to charge the battery bank? Then the panel will not need to be anything but a small disconnect for the genny, basically one of those things that prevents the current from flowing back into the source, which you don't have. I would talk to the building dept., they may not want to take liability, and make you get a contractor to figure something out. All your appliances, and lights will be 12 volt, most motors are 12 volt anyway, they are just transformed to 12 volt from 110 current, and I don't think you will need breakers for 12 volt stuff. You could look at some camper supplies, boat stuff, they all run 12 volt appliances, and lights.

Your One Source... | Answered on Feb 12, 2010


Yes the maximum size branch circuit breaker that will fit in a residential load center is 100 amps. I would recommend that you calculate the amount of power that you need the sub panel to handle, then add any additional loads you may need in the future. Hopefully this is less than 100 amps. I would recommend that you check with your local electrical inspector to make sure your installation meets all local and national codes before proceeding with the install.

Your One Source... | Answered on Jan 01, 2009


yes but to frame ground only not the neutral buss as this is to stay isolated

Your One Source... | Answered on Dec 09, 2008


Go to my app store, find the my apps look for Facebook click on it and press the uninstall button. it should take a couple of sec.

Your One Source... | Answered on Nov 06, 2015


Load it the light, fan, motor, etc that consumes power
http://waterheatertimer.org/Electrical-terminology.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Safe-electric-wiring.html

Typically, 120 volt incoming hot line is connected to black, white to neutral, ground to green...
Then load has 2 wires + ground ... the white connects to neutral, black connects to load wire, and ground to ground

Electrical... | Answered on Nov 11, 2019

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