20 Most Recent GE Profile Performance WPSF4170WAA Questions & Answers


yes its belt.he is very correct.but many other possibilities check that also ----------- It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

  • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.


  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.


If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

GE Profile... | Answered on Feb 19, 2014


It sounds to me , you need the seal and bearing kit.. It is over 300.00 dollar repair, if it is an old washer I would say go get a new one

GE Profile... | Answered on Jan 13, 2010


Suspect bad bearing(s) in drum support. May have a bad motor drive belt.

GE Profile... | Answered on Nov 11, 2009


I think you may be right about the pump is working to hard. May need to replace it.

GE Profile... | Answered on Nov 10, 2009


Pull off the center parts and remove the bolt you will see down inside the center.Then pull it off.

GE Profile... | Answered on Nov 03, 2009


check and replace the defrost relay.

GE Profile... | Answered on Oct 08, 2009


this is usually caused by clogged drain it is the hose that leads to the water pump suction located in between the inner and the outer tub. you can usually feel around the hose by squeezing it if you feel a lump within the hose then all you have to do it remove the foreign material. you can do this by removing the top cover and reach over the bottom to try to remove it or by seperating the hose from underneath to clear the clogg.

GE Profile... | Answered on Sep 18, 2009


There could be a screw on each bottom coner of the front panel. If not, take a putty knife (1 1/2" or 2"wide) Slide it between the lid and the front panel. You should fill a clip about 4" or 5" from corner. Pull putty knife out and then use it to push into each clip while pulling slightly on the front panel. Front will come off a corner at a time. From here you will be able to access everything.
You are most likely going to find that the plastic outer tub is cracked and all four round rubber straps located at the top of the tub broken. If so, you will be better off to replace machine because of the cost of a new outer tub and the labor required to replace it. If you chose to replace tub, you will need a tub wrench. The last one I bought was $68.00 15 years ago.
Please rate this solution

GE Profile... | Answered on Aug 28, 2009


It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

GE Profile... | Answered on Mar 25, 2009


I had use dry ice to freeze the bolt so I could get off the nut...redicuolus...

Note: The pully is regular thread...Do not tighten this bolt down at all when you are putting it aside to wait for parts....I'm an @!#

GE Profile... | Answered on May 25, 2008


most ge washers you just get ya fingers under the bottom and jerk up hard they have a plastic piece under them that has to be replaced from time to time its no big deal

GE Profile... | Answered on Jan 18, 2008


There's a part under the agitator that lifts off if you pull up from the bottom on both sides) called a coupler that is attached to the shaft with one bolt. The plastic teeth probably have stripped off from this coupler, causing the agitator to not agitate properly.

I would buy the part on amazon.
Here's the link to the exact part:

shorturl.at/oxDX0


Video to show how:

https://youtu.be/PN4Q-VqyReo

GE Washing... | Answered Yesterday


First make sure someone didn't turn off the supply valves where the washer hoses are attached to. If both are on, then try to fill machine and switch between hot and cold water. If one of the 2 temps works, the other half of the fill valve is bad. The fill valve is the part where the hoses attach to the back of the machine. It is a 2 part electric valve with 2 electric coils on the valve. Could be one coil is bad or possibly the filter screen is blocked on one side. Screens can be checked and looked at by removing hoses and looking inside end of valve. If coil is bad, complete valve needs replaced. Easy exchange, a few screws, 4 wires, and a small hose leading to inside of machine.

GE Washing... | Answered on Nov 06, 2019

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