20 Most Recent Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

It appears your heating element/coil has failed in this instance.

First - unplug the unit for 40 minutes and re-try.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Passing on the solution. Some other blogger helped me, so I hope this will help you. Mine is a Kenmore Gas range, but the hinges might be similar. They are fixed on the door, not on the range. Get a couple sturdy nails or similar items and keep them in your hand. Use your foot to push the hinge all the way down, as if the door were fully open. You should see a hole in the hinge, in which to insert the nail to hold the hinge open. Repeat on the other hinge. Carefully lift the door in place and set the hinges so they hook onto the latches properly. You should be able to open the door a bit to take the tension off the nails. remove the nails, and that should be it. Even if your hinges aren't the same as mine, the principle seems to apply. My problem (maybe yours) was that I couldn't open the hinges and keep them open when trying to replace the door. They just would snap closed. Very frustrating.

Please use the chart to determine which stove you have. You will have to look at the model number. The first 3 numbers will be the series on the chart. In most cases an F1 error would require replacment of the electronic control. This part is commonly refered to as an EOC or ERC. However this type of repair is usually reserved for repair specialists.

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes – 362 Series (General Electric)
F1 = Stuck Touch Pad Key - Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 911 Series (General Electric/Roper)
F0-F1-FF = Failed transistor in Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes- 665 Series (Whirlpool)
F1-E0 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E1 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E2 U/L ERC Errors - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E3 Fuel Type Fail

Kill power 30 seconds-Cancel-Start/Enter-5 seconds-Should see “E” for electric-
“9” for gas-If code changes again-replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 790 Series Electronic Oven Control (Frigidaire)
F1 = Shorted Touch Pad = Electronic Range Control (EOC) Internal checksum error.
Runaway Temp = Replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Kill power 30 seconds - if error returns - replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Press the self-clean button.  The panel becomes blank(---), then press the up arrow( ^ ).  The panel will appear 3:00 (indication for the duration of self-cleaning). The oven will lock on its own and start the self-cleaning.  Good luck, ya'll!

Articles on the internet suggest not using the self cleaning feature of modern ovens, becuase fuses and other parts may easily burn out due to the high temperature.

Suggested methods to open a locked Kenmore oven at the artlcle at the link below:

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/clear-oven-lock-mechanism-kenmore-stove-71754.html


How to Clear the Oven Lock Mechanism on Kenmore Stove

do you have a button with a small padlock symbol?
yes hold for 10 seconds
no..do you have start button? press and hold for 5 seconds
no...how about a clear/off press and hold for a full 3 seconds.
Sorry I'm at home and the teck guides are not here. So I gave it what I know from memory.
last but not least try turning off the breaker to it for a minute.
Hope this helps a little.

sadly Only a good repair shop can provide you with repair costs .there is a saying, that if man made it , then it is fixable but the cost may be greater than one can afford.

I would expect a standard appliance paint to scorch at the exhaust of the machine and would expect enamel paint at that point.

Lock disengaged on its own after a day. Oven is now clean, everything working properly.

I have kenmore stove mod.790-95660103 you turn on any top burner . T he small one inside the big burner comes on Roy

I have a kenmore electric range/ultra bake, after using the self-cleaning mode on the oven, I cannot get the oven to heat up when I put it in the preheat mode. What should I do?

The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.