20 Most Recent Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

7.0 cubic foot

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 26, 2009

have the limit switches checked

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 24, 2009

You may have to get inside the exhaust assembly ...somtimes there are lint buildups that occur and cause long drying times. Also make sure you don't have a DUAL heating element model. I had one and only one of the elements worked when I repaired the second one it worked great. Most likely is the exhaust block however. Hope this helps.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 19, 2009

It wouldn't be the temperature outside. Might be the thermostat.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 17, 2009

This will give you an idea of what your looking for,You will need to pull the dryer out so you can remove the back panel.
Please rate this solution.


Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 16, 2009

If your trying to turn the drum from the inside, or by opening the top and trying to turn, there will be some resistance.

What are the symptoms of your problem? Does the drum not turn when the dryer is turned on (with or without clothes)?

If so -

1) the idler roller could be bad
2) The motor is bad

The motor is internally thermally protected and no thermal fuse is used outside of the motor. Only place a thermal fuse is used is to prevent overheating.

Provide more information to you problem.

The lower front panel is not removed to service this unit. All service is done from the top or rear.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 15, 2009

The top pops up. Insert a screw driver into the slot about 1 inch below the top. It hinges at the back. There are springs on the left and right.


Try Sears Parts Direct, or you can look up the closest parts and service center from that web page.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 15, 2009

Check the tubing the lint goes through (exhaust). This may be stopped up or clogged. There is a build up here of heat or something that is preventing proper air flow.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

This may be a thermal overload switch which is probably located underneath the top of the dryer. When you find it, bypass it to see if that is the problem. If so, replace it for about 10-12 dollars. Check the breakers first, then the connections in the back to see if they are secure.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

I hate to tell you this, but it is probably the timer. The good news is that it is easy to replace and you don't have to have a tech to do it.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

Try taking off the top of the dryer. This will give you easier access to the front portion of the dryer. I know it is the long way around, but it is the easiest.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

Check the belt and see that it is not worn down, kind of like a fan belt on a car. You may want to replace it anyway. next, the motor be be loose from the frame it is fastened to. Feel the surface of the drum for any grooves or worn places. There may be build up of debris. You can take off top of dryer to gain easier access to the drum.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

First take of the screws off the back. This will give you access to everything. First unplug it for safety reasons. You can then access the t stat

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

remove the rear panel the thermal fuse is mounted the the exhaust duct left of the vent hole held in be one 1/4 nut

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

The first thing we must determine is the type of dryer we are servicing. There are only two types; Gas or electric. If your dryer is electric, meaning it uses electricity instead of flame to produce heat, step one is to verify that the breaker to the dryer's electrical circuit is fully on. Since electric dryers require 240 volts to run, their circuit is run through a dual breaker switch. Sometimes only one half of the breaker switch will be off or fail which will supply enough power to make your dryer tumble but not enough for it to produce heat. Pop the breaker to your dryer off and on again and then see if the dryer will now produce heat. If it does, then have the breaker replaced. If it doesn't, you can verify that the dryer outlet is fully powered by testing it with a volt meter, You can learn how to use a volt meter here. If the outlet is fully powered then the problem definitely rests within the dryer.
Let's next deal with the failure common to both types.
You will need a continuity tester for this process.
After you have removed the power from your dryer and shut off the gas, you will also need to access the internal workings of your dryer. Directions for achieving access, specific to your brand, can be found here.
Most dryers have a thermal fuse located in the exhaust path. Depending on your dryer, the fuse will be found toward the front or the rear of your unit. Generally, if there is a removable back on your dryer then that is where you will find the fuse.
The two most commons thermal fuses you might find are shown in Figure 1. They are each roughly 1" in size. You will notice that the contact points are easily spotted for a continuity test.
In older units and some electrically heated units you will find a series of thermal fuses, looking like small tin cans, at various points along the heater assembly. These will also need to be tested before you can rule out thermal fuses as your problem. If any of the thermal fuses fails the continuity test, then it needs to be replaced. You can find reputable parts dealers at the top of this page.

Electric Dryers After proving your thermal fuse(s) is/are good in your electric dryer it is time to move on to the next most likely possibility, the heating element. A typical heating element is shown in Figure 2. The element, as are all dryer electric heating elements, is comprised of metal coils supported on a framework with two contact points where wires are connected to the rest of the dryer. A break in this coil will stop the dryer from being able to create heat. Test the two contacts for continuity. If they fail, then you need a new heating element. You can find a diagram showing where each brand tends to place its heating elements here.
If both the thermal fuse and the element show continuity it is time to call a professional to service your electric dryer.
window.google_render_ad(); Gas Dryers Gas dryers use a burner system to create heat. This system has a number of parts that are known to fail over time. Some you can test, some you must simply rely on symptomology to form your decision to replace or not to replace.
In Figure 3 you can see an entire burner assembly with the various parts labeled. Not all of these parts can be tested with a simple continuity tester. An ohm meter is now required to find your problem part. Directions on how to use an Ohm meter can be found here.
The parts prone to failure in your burner assembly are:
  • Igniter
  • Coils
  • Flame sensor
A burner operates in a fairly simple way. Once the motor is turning, centrifugal force closes the Motor Switch allowing the electricity to reach the Flame Sensor. The Flame Sensor allows the electricity to reach the Igniter, allowing it to heat up to a temperature high enough to ignite natural gas. Once the Igniter is hot enough the Flame Sensor breaks the Igniter circuit which allows the electricity to run through the Coils that open the gas valve. Gas then flows out past the Igniter and catches fire and the heat is drawn into the airflow within the dryer.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 12, 2009

they should be what is called a 10x32 screw. you should be able to get these from any hardware store. not at home depot or lowes, but like an ace hardware. they will know what you are talking about.
i would guess that someone lost your original screws. if not then you might be having problems because the screws got stripped out when trying to change the cord or hook up a new one. if that happend, then you will need to replace the nuts also. get them at the hardware store too.
it may not be easy but you will save alot of money if you can do this yourself.

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 06, 2009

pf power failure disconnect about 5 inutes ad reconnect usually solve problems,, if not too much voltage at same power source possible glitch

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Jan 03, 2009

pf,,power failer...just unplug for 30 seconds,,,

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Dec 31, 2008

remove cover take a volt meter with one lead on center lug and one on the right lug should read 120 volts , then with one on center lug and one on left should read 120 volt , then with one on the left and one on the right should read 240 volts careful always when checking live voltage void electrical shock

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Dec 30, 2008

It is kinda hard to mess up because the heating element terminals are larger than the limit terminals. The 2 purple wires go to the fuse.
They have smaller terminals.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Kenmore 659... | Answered on Dec 22, 2008

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