No More heat ! :(
the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following
components could be bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it
yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have
a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly
may be clogged.
your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to
dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time
you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has
never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All
dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting
becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually
fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the
Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be
replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it
thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It
should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl
space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint
could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct,
the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and
make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will
prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated
that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should
still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to
clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer
checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per
year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are
due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little
preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the
next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will
need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If
the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower
kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining
clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from
each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some
models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the
screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED.
Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the
ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal
points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take
reading across connector tabs. Reading
should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element
leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the
TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most
manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold
as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have
any further questions.
on Apr 01, 2008