- Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi Debbie,

Most problems with gasoline powered equipment are related to the carburetor. This happens frequently if this equipment is not stored for the "off season" properly. Fuel remaining in the equipment can form varnish that will interfere with movement of carburetor's internal parts, clog the tiny orifices, etc. Often, disassembly and through cleaning with solvents and clearing clogs will return the engine to good running order with little to no need for replacement parts. Making adjustments to the screws and springs on the carburetor is looking for trouble - don't do it. The carburetor is a simple device - but has some pretty small parts that are easily lost of you're not expecting them to fall out during disassembly. Your best bet is to have the mower serviced by a pro. If cleaning is all that is required, it shouldn't cost more than $50 - $75.

You can save yourself this headache next year by either running the engine until it is out of fuel - or removing any fuel from the tank and then run the engine until all remaining fuel in the lines and carburetor has been used completely. This is a good time for an oil change and maybe even a new spark plug. If you didn't do it last year, you might want to have the pro do it for you when he works on the carburetor.

Good luck! | Answered on May 13, 2014 | 119 views

Check the drain hole inside | Answered on May 11, 2014 | 40 views

you could try and unplug it for a bit to see if it will reset itself | Answered on May 10, 2014 | 78 views

You should be careful when dealing with wiring. If the wiring was put in wrong you should probably consult an electrician. If you aren't absolutely sure about what you are doing, don't do it.

Elisa Jed ' | Answered on May 08, 2014 | 52 views

The 1F error has nothing to do with the water filter. It means that the fan isn't spinning properly. This is the fan in the freezer. The problem could be a build up of ice or a failing fan or a problem with the motherboard. Some with the error can hear the fan spin for 15 seconds and then stop.

If you add a comment with the model number of your refrigerator, I should be able to able to direct you to the parts list. If the problem recurs after you defrost the fan, you'll need to replace the parts. Unfortunately, it's impossible to determine which part is bad. The usual solution is to replace the fan and then the motherboard if the error recurs.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells | Answered on May 03, 2014 | 139 views

Sounds like an adjustment problem. Download a manual and go from there. Fred | Answered on Apr 30, 2014 | 38 views

This behavior is a feature of the Security+ door openers. It can be disabled via the control console:

Lights will also turn on when
someone walks through the open garage door. With a
Premium Control Console, this feature may be turned off
as follows: With the opener lights off, press and hold the
light button for 10 seconds, until the light goes on, then
off again. To restore this feature, start with the opener
lights on, then press and hold the light button for 10
seconds until the light goes off, then on again.

Those are instructions from page 30 of the manual of a similar, if not the same, opener: | Answered on Apr 30, 2014 | 185 views

belts too tight,1. pully out of round or warped,2. bad pully bearing,3. incorrect install,4.wrong belt ,5. lol. | Answered on Apr 27, 2014 | 102 views

Sounds like it is letting unburned fuel thru the carberator and getting ignited by the hot exhaust. Your carb is out of adjustment or could be worn out. | Answered on Apr 29, 2014 | 85 views

One possibility is that the heater switch on the control panel ("User Interface") is shorted. I don't know what kind of switch this is (mechanical switch, relay or a solid-state device such as a triac), but you can test it with an ohmmeter. If it is a mechanical device, the contacts may have welded together, or if it is a solid-state switch the semiconductor junctions may have suffered a punch-through and melted. Test procedure: First, (you MUST have the dryer unplugged!) disconnect the heater connections from the panel. Next, check for continuity between the heater connection and the 240 V connections to the control panel. It should be possible to find a heater connection that is open for both 240 V connections with the heater control set to no heat. If both heater terminals are always connected to a 240 V terminal, the panel needs repair. (At $200+, it's worth fixing, and any competent electronic tech should be able to do it unless it's deliberately designed to be unserviceable.) Look for a schematic diagram in the dryer, either pasted to the back panel or in a set of service information documents enclosed in the control panel. That will help you identify the connections by wire color.

Once you have the control panel repaired, you can replace the thermal cutout.

It seems unlikely that a heater short to ground would cause your symptoms. The heater terminals are connected to 240 VAC (opposite phases of 120 VAC referred to neutral/ground potential). If one side is shorted to ground, your panel breaker would trip immediately (120 V shorted out), or if you connected one side of the heater to ground instead of its 120 V connection, you would only get half power to the heater. | Answered on Apr 26, 2014 | 56 views

Please check idler pulley. It is located beside the electric motor.
Make sure power is disconnected. If pulley worn replace it. | Answered on Apr 26, 2014 | 28 views

Remove the back panel. Remove the dial and you will find two screws holding switch, TURN off the power before replacing the switch. Pull wires off and install new switch. Replace wires. | Answered on Apr 26, 2014 | 24 views

I don't know exactly what the error code is to help give an answer that is specific to you. Please go to this link to view an excellent video to help explain to you how the front load machine works. You can also order new parts through them also!
The link is;
Good Luck!
Rich Lilja
Washing Machine Repair Help | Answered on May 02, 2014 | 82 views

The product # does not mean much without a brand name.Would like to help but you need to provide more detailed information. | Answered on Apr 21, 2014 | 28 views

There are a lot of manuals available for sale. There are also a lot of manuals available for free. Are you looking to acquire any manual, or do you have a specific make and model device in mind? | Answered on Apr 21, 2014 | 127 views

Are you sure it is compatible,I have a few that just will not work on other doors,not universal on all like models. | Answered on Apr 19, 2014 | 46 views

Try removing the head | Answered on Apr 14, 2014 | 26 views

the shaft is disconnected, disassemble and fix | Answered on Apr 13, 2014 | 30 views

There are three possibilities, listed below in order of probability.
1. Bad power cord or broken plug
2. Dirty or burned-out switch contacts
3. Bad motor brushes or other broken internal connection

First, inspect the power cord, especially at the plug. If the blades on the plug are heavily tarnished, polish them to ensure a good connection. If you are in the habit of disconnecting by yanking on the cord instead of pulling on the plug to remove it from the outlet, the problem is very likely a broken wire right at the plug. Have a helper hold the saw with the trigger on while you manipulate the cord at the plug. If the saw starts at all, you'll need to replace the plug.

If this doesn't work, the fault is at the saw itself. Unplug the saw and remove the cover (you will probably have to remove the blade to get at some of the screws). Use the resistance range on a multimeter to check for continuity across the switch while it is on. If the resistance is more than a couple of tenths of an ohm higher than that of the test leads connected directly together, the switch contacts are not in good condition. Check for continuity between the hot terminal of the switch and the hot prong on the plug, and between the neutral (white) wire to the motor and the neutral prong on the plug. Also, if you have a three-wire cord, check for continuity of the ground (green) wire from the case of the saw to the ground pin on the plug (the saw will work with this open, but you lose the safety protection of the ground wire if it is open).

If all of these check out, then you'll need to check the motor. First, look for a resettable breaker or thermal protector on the motor. This will be a short plastic rod or button (red, black or white color) on the brush end of the motor, if present. Push it in - if it clicks on the way in, it was tripped. Next, do a resistance check on the motor. You should have a low resistance from the switch to the neutral wire (i. e., through the motor). If it is much more than a few ohms, remove the brushes and clean the commutator with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Inspect the brushes - if they are broken or severely worn, replace them. Recheck the motor continuity after you put the brushes back in. If your first continuity check showed an open circuit and it still reads open, you may have a tripped or blow thermal protector in the motor (some internal thermal protectors are buried in the winding and can only be replaced by having the motor rewound).

Carefully check all electric connections before reassembling, and make sure no wires are pinched by case parts or the switch mechanism. Reassemble the saw completely before applying power. | Answered on Apr 10, 2014 | 91 views

It sounds like the sensors are either blocked or not connecting properly. Make sure the sensors at the base of the door have the LED's on | Answered on Apr 10, 2014 | 47 views

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