Samsung RS265TDRS Side by Side Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

Samsung... | Answered on Oct 23, 2019 | 23,342 views

Follow through on this for specific cause(s):

Samsung... | Answered on Sep 06, 2018 | 2,574 views

could very well be a bad temp sensor.
ck here.. you can chat with a tech too.
hope this helps.

Samsung... | Answered on Jan 10, 2018 | 1,476 views

Get a high power wet/dry shop vacuum cleaner and use the blower side to blow through the vents from freezer to refrigerator. The frost on the "evaporator" acts as an insulator, no matter how slight. You need to do a process of elimination of individual components in the defrost circuit and test for conditions, which I call the three "C's": Circuit Condition, or Component. This tactic can be applied in any electromechanical device. With the Wet/Dry high power vacuum cleaner blower end, use it to defrost the evaporator completely, if you can have someone put a hair dryer or heat gun on the suction side of the wet/dry, it will speed up the process. Afterwards, check that the freezer evaporator fan is running and that all cowlings are installed and clear. Close the freezer and put your hand on the top part of the refrigerator and feel for cool air from the vent. Then open the freezer door and the draft should increase quite a bit, if not, you have a clogged ventilation. Check to see that your defrost kicks in for no less than 10 minutes in a 10 hour window. Usually the defrost timer runs for 6 to 10 hours and a defrost cycle runs for 10 to 30 minutes. Be careful and don't burn yourself because the defrost heater has around 40 ohms of resistance, which equates to around 360 Watts of heat. If a 100 Watt light bulb can burn you, imagine 3.6 times that amount. The defrost timer operates the defrost heater, or the compressor motor and fans, but not both. So, if the fans are not running, the defrost heater should be energized, if the defrost bi-metal thermostat switch is working properly. Said switch should be changed in no more than a 10 year run because they are rated to run 10,000 times, which equates to 9 years 1-1/2 months. It's similar to a vehicles thermostat, if you change the water pump, you need to change the thermostat too because it is a mechanical device working under the laws of thermodynamics, and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas. So, to start off the bat, if you are going to begin to troubleshoot and do your own repairs, start by buying said switch. It costs from around $4 to $75 depending on your manufacturer. Get a similar switch and piggyback it over your existing switch as a trouble shooting tool, over 75% of the chances its that, but always confirm your diagnosis then confirm the bad part with proper tests. After the repair, confirm the repair, never try to second guess yourself because it will bite you. Be aware of the high voltages present, and the sharp fins of the evaporator. If the switch, and/or the heater are good then it mght be your defrost timer. Disconnect the timer and jumper between #4 and #1, that will run the defrost heater if the switch is good. Jumper #4 and #2 will run the compressor motor and fans. Never, ever jumper #4 and #3 because you will experience something very bad, like a loud bright spark arc as it melts your jumper and hopefully trips your house circuit breaker and not electrocute you. Watch several Youtube videos and read blogs on fixing your refrigerator defrost problem and enjoy the experience as it will save you a lot of money from a professional guessing, replacing, hoping and praying that he fixed it, with your nickle.

Samsung... | Answered on Sep 19, 2017 | 1,173 views

try going to a samsung service agent and getting the parts
most will give advice on how to do the repairs if you want or will make an appointment to come do the fix

Samsung... | Answered on May 04, 2017 | 105 views

Water control valve is defective=> DA97-07827B Water Inlet Valve
are you posting the correct model number? RS265TDRS
25903480-aczhirsgw2b24vrsxm5guear-4-0.jpg I'm here should you have question, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Samsung... | Answered on Oct 11, 2015 | 445 views

If the fridge is cool, the defrost timer has failed.
If the fridge is warm, the thermostat is usually the culprit.

Samsung... | Answered on Jul 25, 2015 | 311 views

The crusher is at fault, it needs to be tested.

Samsung... | Answered on Jul 17, 2015 | 108 views


Samsung... | Answered on Mar 22, 2015 | 3,555 views

Your refrigerator is in demo mode. For a detailed description of how to get refrigerator out of demo mode, press the two button on the upper left side of display for 3 to 5 seconds or until the OF dissapears. If your refrigerator does not have a display on the front side, do a search for "how to take samsung refrigerator out of cooling mode/ demo mode" and it should give you several options available for your model of refrigerator.
Hope this helps

Samsung... | Answered on Nov 02, 2017 | 853 views

I did a GOOGLE search using your reforge model number. I came up with several sites that have all of the info you need. The best was RC Repair parts. Here you will find all of the repair parts you need with pictures of same. Look it over I used this service for my Refrige a few years back and it was GREAT! also did a repair on my washing machine again a big help and all the parts were listed and available.

Samsung... | Answered on Jan 21, 2015 | 844 views

The normal setting for freezer and fresh food side is 5. A very common cause of loss of cooling in the fresh food side is the vent are blocked for cool air exchange from the freezer. Find the two vents to and from the freezer to fresh food side and make sure they are not blocked. Most problems can be solved by decluttering freezer and fresh food side.
Next check to see if the evaporator fan is running. This fan provides the push for air circulation through the vent dampers in this type of refrigerator.
If this does not fix the problem and is still under warranty, call the 800 number and pay the small service fee and get a professional to analyze and determine which part is not working.
Hope this helps.

Samsung... | Answered on Dec 15, 2014 | 493 views

Ours just started this today too, have you found an answer anywhere else yet? It's not listed in the known error codes.

Samsung... | Answered on Oct 15, 2014 | 283 views

Hold the top two buttons down at the same time. That will reset it

Samsung... | Answered on Nov 17, 2014 | 1,174 views

5E Means Fridge Defrost Sensor Error.

You will probably have to call an Engineer because this does not necessarily mean the defrost sensor is faulty and you would need to check that the evaporator and drain heaters are working, the thermal fuse for the heaters is ok and if they are fine, the sensor resistance should be checked.

Samsung... | Answered on Jul 09, 2014 | 443 views

Press energy saver button 1 time

Samsung... | Answered on Jun 22, 2014 | 315 views

You have probably dumped the unit now but here are the most likely faults:
1. Defrost Heater (there are probably two in series, one on evaporator and one in drain hole so if one fails, neither work). You remove power, use an Ohmmeter and measure the resistance of the heaters which should be really low <20 ohms.
2. Thermal fuse (if this blows, it must be replaced properly and insulated from the heater). Again, a low Ohm reading would be required.
3. Ice blockage in drain hole (pour a small amount of warm water and ensure it goes down into the tray below compressor where it evaporates away).
4. An error is detected due to a faulty sensor or fan (if it has a display, it may have a diagnostic mode and instructions on back of unit). There could be two sensors and they are usually the same type. One would be for fridge temperature and one for the defrost temperature. You can again use an ohmmeter and check that you are getting similar readings from each (they will be a little different due to being different temperatures and you can warm them with your hands and see the resistance alter a bit).

Lastly the main board which are generally pretty robust and you have already changed.

Samsung... | Answered on Jun 17, 2014 | 258 views

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