Top 20 Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in Dishwasher Questions & Answers

call a repair service for that MAKE

Fisher and... | 455 views | 0 helpful votes

You cannot disable, as in turn off, permanently, but you can turn off with the power (left most) button and then lock the control (right most button) by pressing and holding it for approx. 3-5 seconds. The lock symbol will illuminate. Now the lower drawer cannot be operated - unless the lock is released. You cannot disconnect the lower drawer as this will cause a U4 or similar error and both drawers will shut off.


Fisher and... | 84 views | 1 helpful votes

Fault code F5 is a lid fault error. It could be one of many issues and generally will need a technician to fix it. The problem could as simple as the lid seal that seals the drawer being displaced or the actuator motors that bring the seal down being faulty. Turn the mains power off to the dishwasher and back on. This should bring the actuator motors to start position. If this does not fix it then check under the top housing for any signs of lid seal break. If it looks ok then you have to call technician to fix it. The fix involves taking the drawer out carefully without damaging the wiring and hoses underneath and checking the lid seal assembly underside of dishwasher housing.

Fisher and... | 179 views | 0 helpful votes

Fault code F1 can come from a number of different sources and can remain on as long as the machine has power (does not need to be operating). Once a fault is repaired it can be cleared by pressing the Power button. If the fault is still present then it will not
clear. The service manual says: The faults are displayed in the LCD as one of 5 F (fatal) faults or 1 U (user) fault along with the symbol of a spanner. A fatal fault will usually require the assistance of a qualified service person...

Fault Code Description:
Fault Code: F1
LED Display: Rinse LED
Fault: The flood switch has been activated for more than six seconds
Possible Causes
_ Inlet hose to inlet valve connection loose
_ Inlet valve body leak
_ Damage to the fill or drain hoses
_ Heater plate damage (chipped enamel)
_ Seals/O Rings (pinched, contaminated or poor join)
_ Dispenser (seal, diverter valve or weld leak)
_ Lid area (lid motors not functioning correctly, lid off yoke or foreign object interfering with lid seal)

Fault Code Problem Solving:
    1.Question: Is there a F1 on both displays? Yes: Go to Question 2. No: If power fails to the bottom tub it will cause thetop tub to go F1. Test heater plate.
    2.Question: Has a flood occurred? (N.B. The flood may have dried up) Yes: Go to Question 3. No: Go to Question 13
    3.Is the lid sealing on the tub correctly? Yes: Go to Question 5. No: Go to Question 4
    4.Question: Are the lid actuators functioning correctly? Yes: Go to Question 5. No: Check the lid actuators are assembled correctly on the slides and yokes. Check the plugs on the RFI board and the terminals on the lid motors. If the lid actuators look slow replace them.
    5.Question: Is the water level in the tub high? Yes: Go to Question 6. No: Go to Question 8
    6.Question: Is the water inlet valve leaking? Yes: Replace inlet valve. No: Go to Question 7
    7.Question: Is the DishDrawer priming correctly? Yes: Go to Question 12. Go to Question 8
    8.Question: Is the spray arm split? Yes: Replace spray arm. No: Go to Question 9
    9.Question: Is the spray arm running freely? Yes: Go to Question 10. No: Check the rotor is running freely, clear of foreign objects and fitted correctly. Make sure the wash impeller is not slipping off the rotor shaft.
    10.Question: Is water leaking from a split inlet or drain hose? Yes: Replace split inlet or drain hose. No: Go to Question 11
    11.Question: Is water leaking around the heater plate 'O' rings? Yes: Replace or refit 'O' rings. No: Go to Question 12
    12.Question: Is the drain hose blocked? Yes: Clear drain hose of blockage. No:Go to Question 13
    13.Question: Is there condensation or foreign matter around the flood switch PCB? Yes: Clear flood sensor of condensation or foreign matter. No: Go to Question 14
    14.After clearing water does the F1 fault code still activate? Yes: Replace Chassis RFI board. No: Go to Question 15
    15.Refer to Bulletin DW028 DW025, 028, 031, 040

Fisher and... | 306 views | 0 helpful votes

In order to reach MOST of its components front facia have to come off. (so you can remove its bottom cover under the drawer).
This machine is VERY sensitive to leaks, so be very careful!

Fisher and... | 66 views | 0 helpful votes

Not sure if you have managed to fix the F1 problem with your dishdrawer. This is a common problem and occurs mainly due to water leaking into the base of the dishdrawer under the bottom drawer.
But if it is occuring only in one drawer then the power filter at the base of dishdrawer is faulty and needs replacement.

Otherwise make sure the mains power to dishdrawer is turned off. Pull out the bottom drawer and stack in some towels behind it if you can to remove the moisture sitting on the base. The flood switch is located there. Then take a hair dryer and run it down behind the drawer to dry things. Push drawer back and turn power back on. Now if you cannot reach the back of the drawer then you will have to pull the drawer out from its rail. Refer the installation manual for this. See link page 7.

You need to find the source of the lead, Fisher Paykel DishDrawer Installation Instructions ManualsOnline com

Fisher and... | 800 views | 0 helpful votes

Hi Anonymous, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? Please describe the problem.

Fisher and... | 62 views | 0 helpful votes

Try disconnecting power to the dishwasher by turning the circuit breaker off. Leave power off for 15 minutes or so then power back up. Try the program and switch again. Sometimes this procedure reboots the program and solves the problem.

Fisher and... | 70 views | 0 helpful votes

Try and do a power reset to the dishwasher. This means turn the mains power off to the dishwasher and back on again. If there is no mains socket under the kitchen bench then maybe do this from the mains contactor switch in the meter box. If there is no difference to the behaviour of the top drawer then the controller has most likely packed up. You can test things out by taking controller from bottom drawer and putting in top drawer. But this requires some experience with taking out the front covers of the drawers, taking out the connectors and putting back. If you mix the connector connections etc you can cause more damage. Take photos as you go along. Make sure the dishwasher is disconnected from mains power when you are working on it.

Fisher and... | 522 views | 0 helpful votes

If the power is connected and you are able to program the wash cycle, then it appears the drawer close sensor is failing. The controller is unable to detect drawer close and start the wash cycle. Need to replace the sensor or clean it. The location is shown on page 10 item 5 (tub home sensor) in this parts manual

Fisher and... | 170 views | 0 helpful votes

If the power is connected and you are able to program the wash cycle, then it appears the drawer close sensor is failing. The controller is unable to detect drawer close and start the wash cycle. Need to replace the sensor or clean it. The location is shown on page 10 item 5 (tub home sensor) in this parts manual

Fisher and... | 114 views | 0 helpful votes

There should be a port under the soap powder fill door with a screw cap and a red LED., Unscrew the cap and fill with liquid rinse aid.

Fisher and... | 52 views | 0 helpful votes

Not funny Cindy - Any chance you can access the power breaker in the panel for the dishwasher? Sometimes with even short power bumps or outages, electronic controls get out of whack - Leave the breaker off for a minute and then turn it back on - As for the water level, I would question if the hookup was done entirely correctly - The idea is for the drain to connect to the most clear point of the sink drain - if you drain came with a pre-made Dishwasher drain connection, did the installer make sure that the plug was fully removed before connecting - Even in my mobile dishwasher I might get an inch of water, but not what you are experiencing - Good Luck

Fisher and... | 139 views | 1 helpful votes

I can't tell you how to get it apart, but this is a known problem. Once you figure out how to clean it out I suggest you stop using powered dishwasher detergent and use something like Cascade Complete (liquid)

Fisher and... | 55 views | 0 helpful votes

These units are nothing but grief!! Problem sounds similar to my one, it caused me no end of problems from the time it was installed and don\'t bother calling F&P service coz it will cost you almost as much as a new dishwasher. They have an inherent prob with circuit board, even service tech (on the quiet) said they are bad.The best thing I did for mine was throw it on the scrap metal pile and bought myself a Meile, not one problem. its super quiet and designed to last 20 years. Use the bottom one till it completely craps itself (prob not long) and then buy a NON F&P one!!!

Fisher and... | 113 views | 0 helpful votes

The controller is detecting some abnormal condition. Clean the interior of the dishwasher with warm water and clean cloth. Remove the base drain plate etc., before cleaning and clean the plate separately. Put back and try again. If no difference, then buy Finish dishwasher cleaning kit and run the dishwasher on one of the hot cycles. (You will have to keep pushing the pause button ). See if it clears everything. If not then call the technician as the controller may need replacement.

Fisher and... | 165 views | 0 helpful votes

Most likely cause is the rotor at the base of the drawer is stuck or there is some foreign object in the drain sump. You will have to pull out the rotor and check for any obstructions - broken glass or pieces of bone or dry seed.

Fisher and... | 55 views | 0 helpful votes

Here is a suggestion: I had problems with the top drawer on a model 603I, I found that the control board under the drawer cover (at the upper right corner) had a broken latch. This allowed the control board assembly to drop down at the right side which caused the electronic eyes at the side of the drawer to become misaligned. This was giving false information to the control board indicating that the drawer wasn't closed properly. My problem was fixed by securing the control board back in place making sure the electronic eyes were lined up properly. (Note: The electronic eyes I am referring to include two clear plastic tubes about an inch and a half long to the right of the control board. These tubes must be properly lined up with the led and photocell on the side of the control board) It sounds complicated but if you take the drawer cover off you will notice the control board alignment immediately. Its an easy fix if this is your problem. One way to fix it is to take a piece of string and tie the board back in place. (That's what I fixed mine with and it has worked like new ever since.) NOTE: MAKE SURE THE POWER IS TURNED OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN THIS REPAIR!

Fisher and... | 91 views | 0 helpful votes

Assuming the inlet water tap is not shut you will need to verify if the problem is with both drawers or just one. If it is only one drawer then the inlet valve is fualty. If you hear a click on start of wash but water does not get through.

Fisher and... | 59 views | 0 helpful votes

Usually the Finish tablets work well. Drop it in the cutlery basket.

Fisher and... | 210 views | 1 helpful votes

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