20 Most Recent Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer Questions & Answers


Check the motor wiring and change the overload capacitor across the motor.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jan 15, 2018


If you are absolutely sure that the vent is perfectly clear, then the device that shuts off unit due to overheating is going off prematurely. Go to attached site for part involved and get a new one. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Whirlpool... | Answered on Aug 27, 2017


The right rear roller could be defective, though new.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Aug 13, 2017


Make sure both hot wires in your 220 voltage are live. If yes, replace heater core. Clean surfaces of all thermistors. Check fan housing for thermistors also. Make sure fan is solid and secure to axel.

Whirlpool... | Answered on May 07, 2017


On a Whirlpool, it has been for me the coils are broken...it can be fixed by undoing the belt, 'popping' the top pnl up with a screwdriver, lean the front pnl down then move the drum forward to get to the coils. You MUST use a crimp type connector as these are nickle wire and won't solder easily. Saves a lot of money and will run forever. Definitly unplug it first! Duh!

Whirlpool... | Answered on Dec 15, 2015


Its very hard testing without a test meter.. volts and ohms. The Casing & heater is on the right side facing the back of the dryer. Metal silver in color, the heater is inside of the caseing. You can take the heater out and look for broken coils on the heater to see if it needs replacing. You have a to lift the top up to get at the top screw of the heater casing, take the 2 screws out of the flap where the lint filter goes. Use a putty knife to push the clips in on the front of the dryer and look to the back on the left side to remove the top screw of the casing. check the heater a post results.. theres many more things to check if the heater is good.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 02, 2015


Thermal fuse , is the small white plastic piece on the blower box . That , keeps the dryer from running . Thermal cut-off , is the small thermostat on the burner (element) box , which would keep the dryer from heating .

Whirlpool... | Answered on Aug 07, 2015


Hello,

A typical reason the thermal cutoff would go out so quickly is because of a poor airflow so the heat is being built up in the dryer instead of being vented out.
What to check is for a blocked/restricted vent,lint built up in the blower housing that is restricting the airflow& or a broken blower wheel that isn't moving the air from the dryer.


GENE

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jul 23, 2015


I agree with fly. we stored a new dryer one time and I stuffed a bag in exhaust to keep out rodents, then forgot about it. still under warrenty guy came out laughed said easiest repair he ever did. glad I made him happy, but if not it check your heating coils, easy replace and plug in, the whole box unbolts. good luck!

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 23, 2015


Electric dryer no start does nothing

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.

CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.

NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.

If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings

Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.

Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

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Whirlpool... | Answered on May 07, 2015


DOES IT START RIGHT AWAY OR ABOUT AN HOUR LATER? IF LATER U MAY HAVE A BAD MOTOR WINDINGS PROBLEM? OR A BAD CYLING THERMOSTAT, MOISTER SENSOR NOT DETECTING DRYNESS OR DETECTING DRYNESS WHEN ITS NOT DRY?

Whirlpool... | Answered on Mar 01, 2015


you have a bad motor,if you open the door,hold the door switch in with one hand and spin the drum with the other and have someone else push the start button on and if by helping it to spin it starts usually the motor is bad but i did find on the maytag neptune style dryer that the belt cut into the belt pulley and was holding up the drum and the motor was buzzing like it was bad but like i say usually it's the motor.next time send the brand name and model number and i can help you out better.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Mar 01, 2015

Tip

Thorough Dryer Advice


This advice is general in nature, but should assist you in isolating MOST dryer malfunctions.
Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Heating Element has blown. But…what causes this to happen?

First, a little dryer theory: A dryer needs air to breath. Proper ventilation is required for the heating circuits to regulate the internal air temperature properly. If you have to keep placing items back in the dryer to dry again, or the dryer just doesn’t seem to be putting out hot enough air, it may be time to think about checking the dryer vent ducting (a simple separation of more dense clothing from lighter weight clothing can help shorten dry times too). If the heating circuits are starved for air they actually OVERHEAT and can cause problems. This is why the outside case can feel hot, but the drum inside feels cold. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, the hi-limit thermostat is supposed to open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regulates its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow. This device acts as a fuse, is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the two components together and are sold as a set.

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell a lot of people complain about. If lint accumulates on the heating element it will smolder and burn. It is often reported that you should clean your ducting twice per year. I recommend the ducting be checked (this means inspected to see if it needs cleaning) thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determining air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the dryer (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint. Poor dryer maintenance is also one of the frequent causes of house fires.

How to troubleshoot a dryer: If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.


Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. However, the general cleaning maintenance and proper ventilation requirements should apply to ALL dryers.

on Dec 27, 2014 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer


From inside dryer hold blower wheel with wrench that fits the squre part of blower wheel turn motor shaft clockwise should loosen the blower wheel............

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 22, 2014


The back doesn't come off. The top pops up. It's held down with clips. Pry under the top it'll pop up from the front. Hinges in the back.
Next the front is screwed on. If you take that off you'll have access to everything inside

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 15, 2014


I'd sure start by making sure the belt isn't broken. You can usually see the belt with a flashlight after accessing the panel (some are in front, others in the rear) - don't go probing around bare armed without unplugging the unit....

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 15, 2014


Is door shut good ? Check door switch push it in and see if you can hear it click. Check power at outlet then where it goes into the dryer. Check start switch and voltage coming out of the timer. Check voltage to motor. If voltage to motor you will need a motor.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 02, 2014


Unplug power cord & pull the back off and use ohm meter to
to check the heating element also check if the element is ground to the heater box. Check the thermal fuse, the cutout fuse & thermostat on the heater box. Check the operating thermostat and any others you see. Last check the centrifucal switch on the motor the heating wire goes through it. To check this switch connect ohm meter to terminals it will show open unless motor is running so take a screwdriver & lift up on switch button then it should show continuity. Hope this helps

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 02, 2014

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