I had the exact same problem. The screen went black and the green light flashed. I went ahead and took the monitor apart (scary) and took a look at the power supply circuitry. I saw 6 suspicious electrolytic caps on the board. Three 470uF 25V 105 degree C caps, two 1000uF 10V 105 degree C caps, and one 470uF 10V 105 degree cap. They all appeared to be slightly bulging and one even had a small hole in the top. I decided to replace all of them. The parts cost a little more than 5 bucks. I couldn't find a 470uF 10V cap at my local store so I bought a 16 V version instead, which is fine. Anyway, after replacing all 6 caps, the monitor works as good as new.
LCD monitor needs to be fed with native resolution from the PC video out, this monitor native resolution is 1280x1024 @60Hz, try that setting to see if it helps before opening up the monitor to look for failed components.
First check your cord from the computer to the monitor to make sure the connections are clean and good on the blue vga cord. Plugging it in and out a few times will help clean the pins and holes. If that is ok: then it may be bulbs. Pink means that you have bad bulbs inside the screen. sometimes the pink goes away when the bulbs warm up. eventually it won't stay on. There is a slight chance the power board is also getting weak. You would have to open it up to tell this. Once partially opened, Disconnect the wide set of wire that goes from the back of the screen to the monitors main video board and then try to turn it on, If it is still bulbs they will really show up with this setup. If you send me a picture of the power board to email@example.com, I may be able to tell if the board has issues by looking at the picture of it. Fran
The Q7 has a tendency to burn up transistors and a high voltage capacitor on the one half of the inverter board which is part of the power board. I have repaired 1/2 dozen of these with that problem. Only way to tell for sure would be to open it up and look at it. If you can do that and send me a picture to firstname.lastname@example.org, I may be able to confirm this. The other possible problem could be a bad bulb, but since it is fairly new ? that is probably not the issue. Fran
Don't know if this will fix your problem, but my monitor did the same thing. If you look on the bottom of the power supply board, you will find Q305 and Q306. They are probably both shorted. I replaced both transistors and the capacitor C305 on the top of the same board. The capacitor was open. After I replaced the parts it is working again. Look with a magnifying glass and make sure there are no bad solder joints. The only place I could find the transistors were at www.bluestar-online.com. Make sure you order the 2SC5706. It is an exact replacement.
Actually that model has an integrated inverter with the power supply. Should be part # xlm1700390004 they cost around 25 bux and are fairly easy to replace.
If you are handy with soldering you could check the three 470 uf caps on the board they are tank caps and when they go they do what you are describing. Open the monitor and look at the three black capacitors if the top is bulged they are bad. If you have a capacitance meter check the capacitance it will most likly be well below 470 uf the caps are cheap like 39 cents if you do go this route use 30v not 25v caps to be on the safe side.
Word of warning switching power supplies can kill you quickly never work on it live and let it discharge at least an hour before working on it.
To open the Monitor take off the base (4 screws). Usually there is a little black covering over it, which just pops off. After that you will see another two screws underneath that connect the back panel to the front (which hold in the button board at the bottom of the screen). From There I just take a Screw driver and start from the bottom where you see a larger gap, and begin prying softly just enough to get past the tabs. I do this all the way around the screen. On the Q7 Monitors there is actually still one cord connecting the back panel to the videoboard. Just reach under and unplug this cord and your able to slid it down the video connection cord so you can get to the inside. Make sure the the cords are connected fully and that you have the cord grounded like the video board. As long as that screw is in, it should not come loose.
Hello Edelberto, this monitor does not disarm by the back to disarm the monitor, you have to remove, with great care, the front frame and there you will see the obstacles you have to remove the panel assembly and the platelets
I hope you can disarm it, comment the results
Greetings Franco Dosil