Honeywell HZ519 Baseboard Heater - Answered Questions & Fixed issues


unplug the heater. remove the screws holding the control panel, pull the control out from the body of the heater enough to get the probes of an ohmmeter onto the connections that lead to the heating element. the ohmmeter should read less than 100 ohms. if the ohmmeter reads infinite ohms (open circuit), the heating element or the connections to it ate bad. if the heating element is bad, cheaper to buy a new heater. if the heating element is okay, repair connections or control.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/bill_f6ca18ca1db028ed

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Jan 10, 2014 | 511 views


there is ussualy a small thumb screw in the feed pipe to the unit in qestion, just loosen it and let air and some water out.
or on your boiler there will be a bleed vave sometimes there is evemn an auto vent valve

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Oct 13, 2012 | 124 views


This unit uses 1500 Watts (1.5 kW) in one hour at its maximum setting. (12.5 A * 120V AC) The total cost will depend on how long the heater is on each day and the utility charges at the time of use (for example, if you have day/night rates).

The manual is available here: http://www.kaz.com/kaz/support/manual/?ProductManualAction=renderProductManualById&ProductManualId=fc5e11ee85619a5101b4c15f217911d6 .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Apr 04, 2011 | 108 views


I do believe that there should be a tip switch under the feet and if it is broke off then you need to by pass the switch. You could use a small piece of dowel rod up inside to trip the switch and have heat.

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Dec 13, 2010 | 335 views


I have this model heater and it quit working as well. I took it apart to find that the plastic bosses that the safety switch mounts/screws to melted and the switch fell into the bottom of the heater rendering the heater useless.
FYI, The safety switch removes power from the heater when the heater is laying on it's front or back incase it gets knocked over while it is on.
This is a serious defect. These heaters should be recalled.

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Jun 28, 2010 | 883 views


I have an HZ519 that stopped working as well. I found that the anti tip switch is in fact a mechanical weight type if switch and not a mercury switch. The problem I'm having is that the plastic stud that the anti tip switch mounts to is melting causing the switch to come loose and fall to the bottom of the heater and therefore stop working properly depending upon the position the switch is in when it lands.
Does anyone know if Honeywell has a retrofit for this problem?
Thank you,
Randy

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Dec 12, 2010 | 1,586 views


It sounds like the thermostat is loose and needs to be adjusted or replaced. Leave this to a professional if you don't know what you're doing. So many fires are caused by baseboard heaters.

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Oct 01, 2009 | 507 views


The manual isn't very helpful.

There are three modes to the heater. Hit the mode button once, and it will display the temperature of the room with a small flashing thermometer. Set it to whatever temperature you want - BUT don't hit the mode button again! If you hit it again, it will move through the timer mode, then continuous run mode (which displays a little circle in the upper left). Same goes for the timer. If you want it to shut itself down in up to 10 hours, press the mode button until you get to the timer, set the timer for however many hours you want, and then don't hit the mode button again.

It stays in whatever mode you set it to.

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Mar 12, 2009 | 646 views


Just fixed one, you will need a T-15tr driver, which is a security torx screw remover. Open back cover behind controls, check for
any lose wires. Heating element wire had become disconnected on the one I repaired. P.S. you will need an extension for the bit if it is just the bit, and not a screw driver.

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Mar 07, 2008 | 328 views


its difficult to make a homeowner an expert in troubleshooting his/her equipment if he/she has no technical background - but - I will try. First check the cord to plug connection. Is it tight? Does it look melted? Next, take the unit apart where the cord goes into the unit. Check the wiring path. Look at each connection. Look for burnt off wires at connections. Most connectors are the push on type and are mechanically fastened to the wires. if they are burned off you'll need replacement spade terminals and a crimping tool. (radio shack) has these. one wire will go through a thermostat and out to an element terminal. one wire may go through a thermodisc overload, then to the thermostat and then to the element. the other wire will definitely go straight to the element. there may be some extra connections for lights etc. if you have to take apart the heater make a diagram of which wires go where. use some masking tape with numbers written on it to make sure the wires go back to the same place you took them off.

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Feb 21, 2008 | 614 views


Check for lint inside and on the edges, it may have blown and you need somebody to repair this, is it smoking at all?

Honeywell HZ519... | Answered on Nov 29, 2007 | 285 views


Thermostats have multiple issues when you start checking them against thermometers.

1) the built-in thermometer may not match the set temperature because one or both need calibration. Compare the built-in to an external thermometer and see if there is any adjustment to make them match. Record the setting on the thermostat and the temperature when it starts and stops -- there should be a 1-3 degree range which may be adjustable. The set point should be in the middle of the on-off temperature spread.
2) the thermostat has a heat anticipator setting which may be set poorly -- turning off the heat before it reaches the set point - the fan normally runs for 1-2 minutes after the heat source is off. The anticipator is used to stop heating before reaching the set point as there are still a lot of BTUs coming out during the fan run-down -- usually 1-2 minutes.

Honeywell... | Answered on Oct 16, 2019 | 39 views


Actually the 24 hour time makes it easier to correctly set the thermostat for when you want it to change setting.

Honeywell... | Answered on Oct 03, 2019 | 44 views


No battery backup in this thermostat.

Honeywell... | Answered on Sep 25, 2019 | 51 views


You need to remove the thermostat from the wall plate to change the battery. Look on the bottom of the thermostat for a locking screw. Loosen this screw with an appropriate screw driver. Then pull the bottom of the thermostat away from the wall plate and then lift up from the bottom. When you put the thermostat back on, line up the brackets at the top of the thermostat with the slots on the wall plate. Then push the thermostat against the wall plate and tighten the locking screw.

The documentation for the Honeywell RTH2300B1012/U is available on the product page: https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/5-2-day-programmable-thermostat-honeywell-rth2300b.htm . Click on the Manuals tab. See page 4 (page 6 of the PDF) for removing the thermostat from the wall plate. See page 9 (11 of the PDF) for replacing the batteries and putting the thermostat back on the wall plate. The current link to the manual is https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/images/pdf/rth2300b1012-u-5-2-day-programmable-thermostat.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Honeywell... | Answered on Sep 13, 2019 | 46 views

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