Top 20 Whirlpool RBD305PD Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers


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GBD RBD Whirlpool Oven Problems Causes and Solutions

Hello Edward!
This blank display is a common control board problem. If the buttons beep when pressed, then the control board is getting adequate power. If the buttons beep.. and your oven light still turns on when the oven door is open.. this a text book control board failure. We at Fixyourboard.com can solve this problem for you, and back the remanufacture with a two year warranty.

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I suspect a poor connection at the wiring to the EOC is the cause of the failures.

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Most definitely a bad control board and/or soldered components. (The part about cutting power to the oven was a dead giveaway)
There are low and high temperature solders, but usually solder melts at 370° F. If the oven is improperly insulated or ventilated you will have continued heat stress to the control board.

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Looks like you have the stainless steel model. It's not too difficult. Once you get behind the oven and can see the control board, it will be held to the back of the keypad with about 4 - 8 screws. Typically it is surrounded by a black plastic shroud. Make sure you take a picture of how everything is plugged in so that you can plug the repaired or replacement board back in. If you are sending your board to a company for repair we suggest you send the shroud with it, and even the keypad as well so they can test it.

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If you don't have a self cleaning oven, then use an SOS pad to remove any baked on stuff. You may want to scrape the heavy stuff first so that the SOS pad will be more effective.

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THERE ARE USUALY 2 LEVERS OR HOOKS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR THAT YOU NEED TO LINE UP WITH THE HOLES THAT ARE ON THE OVEN. YOU NEED TO LINE THEM UP AT AN ANGLE & NEEDS TO BE STRAIGHT TO SLIDE IN.

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not sure what you mean
but do you have the anti tip bracket installed?
it keeps stove from tipping forward when door is opened
connects to wall and stove leg or adjuster

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Hello there.
From the manual I got

To Stop Self-Clean any time:
Press UPPER OFF, LOWER OFF or OFF/CANCEL. If the oven
temperature is too high, the door will remain locked. It will not
unlock until the oven cools


Hope it helps/

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You need to remove the inner door panel, Usually a few screws holding it on. On some models the handle screws also need to be removed. Do it slowly and carefully as the door may want to swing up quickly, once the weight on it is removed. Pay close attention to each step so all screws etc go back in the same place. Make a diagram as you take them out to be sure.

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Okay this doesn't make sense did the breaker trip if so look for a short to ground I have serviced many of wall ovens in self clean the TOD does trip do you have a display if not the thermal cavity fuse is open if it stopped in self clean the door is locked as a tech I went to the auto store and bought some feeler gauges use one at the top of the door in the middle slide gauge between door and body push to the left to release the catch door should open

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First thing is to reset the breaker, it's tripped right now, so turn it on then off again then back on. If it kicks right back off again leave it off as you have a dead short and that can be dangerous especially with an electric oven. In that case call an appliance repair person.

If the breaker stays on after you reset it go back to your oven and see if it has come back on and is working. If it has power but the display is flashing some error code you will need to troubleshoot with the owners manual or look online for a manual.

If the oven is only a few years old it should "reboot" itself when power is restored. Some models require that you manually reset them with some combination of buttons (that's where you need the manual).

I hope this helps.

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remove the door and reassemble

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Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:

1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

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u may need to first check if the fan is not impeeded by debris and oil build up etc. or have a broken impeller

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E1 F2 is most often due to a failed keypad. Depending on your exact model the original part may be no-longer-available. However, there are replacement membrane switches available here:

Introducing the Ledgestone Technologies Touchpad

Models: RBD305PDB10 RBD305PDB11 RBD305PDB12 RBD305PDB13 RBD305PDB14 RBD305PDB15 RBD305PDB7 RBD305PDB8 RBD305PDB9 RBD305PDQ10 RBD305PDQ11 RBD305PDQ12 RBD305PDQ13 RBD305PDQ14 RBD305PDQ15 RBD305PDQ7 RBD305PDQ8 RBD305PDQ9 RBD305PDS12 RBD305PDS14 RBD305PDS15 RBD305PDT11 RBD305PDT12 RBD305PDT13 RBD305PDT14 RBD305PDT15 RBD305PDB1 RBD305PDB2 RBD305PDB3 RBD305PDB4 RBD305PDB6 RBD305PDQ1 RBD305PDQ2 RBD305PDQ3 RBD305PDQ4

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If is 6 months old call for warranty repair, turn off circuit breaker for a minute then repower this may clear it if not again call for warranty service

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It may be the self clean latch not closing or locking

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