20 Most Recent Whirlpool DU850SWPB Questions & Answers


check the sump area,check valve at the hose on the bottom of the unit,then check the house drain piping for a blockage,also kinks or obstructions in the hoses

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jul 17, 2010


check button for power, you may overide the button by cutting wire to and from buttom, and tide them together, if it works,
(this is a temperary solution,always replace button for a new one for child and adult security ).

Whirlpool... | Answered on Mar 07, 2010


i helped someone get rid of the mildew smell with something called laundry pure

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 01, 2009


It sounds like the drain tube is partly clogged.
If you have a shop-vac you could try that. Try to set dishwasher back on discharge,see if water gose out the second time. if it still dont go out it is clogged. goodluck

Whirlpool... | Answered on Aug 12, 2009


The hard plastic strip slides on top of the smaller panel horizontally into the dishwasher; I was trying to make it fit vertically to attach between larger panel and smaller panel.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Aug 06, 2009


f you have nuisance water leaks around the base of your dishwasher, you may be using a detergent that is sudsing too much. Cut back on the amount of detergent you use, and see if that makes a difference. Water that spills through the door vent is usually caused by improperly loading dishes. Leaks from the door itself may be caused by a faulty door gasket or door tightness adjustment.

Also make sure the dishwasher is sitting level (you can adjust the front feet up or down, and many units have some type of levelers at the rear).


Water under the dishwasher may be originating from a leaky hose or loose hose connection. Remove the lower front panel, and check the hoses. The pump seal may be defective, too; replacing this is a job for an appliance repairperson.

An older dishwasher may corrode at the bottom, but this is fairly uncommon. If this is the case with your dishwasher, it's time for a new one.
Rate...me

Whirlpool... | Answered on Aug 02, 2009


If you remove the inner door some peices are on one panel and some are on the other. It makes it hard to check. There is an actuator in the door. It makes contact from the timer cam to the dispenser lever. You can see if it's gummed up or broken. If that unit has a removeable deco panel on the outer door you may be able to remove it and turn the timer to see how things are moving.

Whirlpool... | Answered on May 15, 2008


Heater or heat sensor problem that has to be tested with a multimeter.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 20, 2019


LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START:

Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 17, 2019


check under agitator for broken cogs or gears under plate

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 14, 2019


It should be flashing a code that you can look up. A common code is for the pump to be jammed with something. It can be freed up through an access point under the lower front cover.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 14, 2019

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