20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JGS8850ADS Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers


F1-8 commonly means shorted membrane. Unplug or shut off the circuit breakers for 15 minutes, plug back in/turn back on, if problem persists replace membrane, if they are integrated parts replace control board (some come with membrane on parts vary)

Always shut off power before any repair attempts electrically

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Sep 28, 2011


Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Its a problem with th touch membrane. These had allot of issues with this. Sometimes just unplugging and plugging the ribbon cable from the control to the touch-pad a few times fixed the issue. I would try that first.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Aug 05, 2011


F1 Power to element relay energized during time of day display Wiring harness shorted or change power relay board (PRB)

Note: for double ovens, change second oven board

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jan 11, 2011


F1 Power to element relay energized during time of day display Wiring harness shorted or change power relay board (PRB)

Note: for double ovens, change second oven board

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jan 11, 2011


Usually when these devices misbehave this way there are usually a couple of causes. These include
1: The unit was not properly installed therefore the gas pipes do not supply top the top burners.
2: In the process of installation the automatic igniting mechanism might have been improperly connected.
Gas units are very risky to trouble shoot on your own as they could be disastrous if improperly connected as gas leakages could arise at any point in time.
To determine which of the 2 above problems try using a match stick to put on the top burners and if they come on then it is the igniting mechanism but if it doesnt then the gas is not being supplied to the top.
Hope this solution has been helpful?

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Oct 20, 2010


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
$#WED

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


is this a duel fuel with an electric oven..... the bake is the bottom and the broil is the top both cycle on and off to preheat the oven.... if ur lower bake element is burnt out then u woould expereicnce the problem u stated..... if u have a gas oven then ur ignitor or glow bar is probably burnt out....... either way it sounds like your bake element or bake ignitor has failed

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jan 31, 2010


Problem fixed!!! Lowes is giving us a new stove!!!

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Oct 10, 2009


IF YOU GO ON LINE TO REPAIRCLINIC.COM THEY HAVE TROUBLE SHOOTING Q&A AREAS THAT WILL BE OF GOOD HELP AND ALSO SELL PARTS AT VERY GOOD PRICES

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Aug 25, 2009


ee-214 m-214

Jenn-Air... | Answered on May 30, 2009


Hi!

Please use a blower or hair dryer and blow out any moisture on the back burner knob. This happens when moisture enters the knob area. Moisture shorts the connections and thus, its clicking continuosly.
Also, check for the electrical connections.

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Please ask for further clarifications.

Please rate this solution.

Thanks
Rylee

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Mar 02, 2009


so why post the question?

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Feb 03, 2009

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