Question about Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000E Front Load Washer
I went to wash a comforter that my dog had thrown up on, its big but I've washed it in my washer before...I go in to check because the washer didn;t sound like it was on. It wasn't. Completely off. Pulled comforter out and its soaked...it didn't finish the wash cycle, and theres water pooled in the washer. Won't come on at all, unplugged it, plugged back in...it will not not not come on at all!!!
Look under the washer. Is there a little pile of black rubber shavings? With the heavy load, you may have broken the basket coupler between the motor and the drum. Try turning off the selector, and move it one click at a time towards the end of the cycle and turning back on. Hopefully it will drain for you. If the coupler is the problem it is inexpensive to fix. Some also call this part the "clutch". It kind of looks like a hockey puck with six holes in it... three for the motor, three for the clothes drum. I attached pictures of a couple types. This part is a common problem when you put a heavy load in, because the rubber takes more stress.
Posted on Jul 10, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Can you give me a model and brand name. Does the washer drain at any time during the wash cycle?
Will it go into a spin at all in any setting? heavy duty, normal and delicate cycle? is water not draining?
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
CHECK THE FOLLOWING---
1. Clogged drain line or water pump
Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).
2. Water Pump
If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.
Posted on May 31, 2009
Hello, welcome to FixYa
It sounds like the unit is detecting an unlocked door, loose wire, bad reed switch etc. hence the control will not initiate a hi-speed spin.
I know most folks will rule out the lock initially because the unit does indeed "lock", however, the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.
If it does indeed drain fine, then here's the next place I'd direct you to investigate.
**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**
It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.
What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, i.e.
If loose, push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )
If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch (95% of the time), so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...There should be a tech sheet underneath the tub assembly behind the access panel for test procedure of the switch.
**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**
You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace.
As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.
1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**
2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.
3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.
4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.
Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Posted on Jun 01, 2011
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
It is possible that there is a drainage problem.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
Posted on Sep 21, 2011
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