Question about Janome Harmony 1017 Sewing Machine

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Belt disengaged from hand wheel

I have attempted to open the machine up and can not remove the plastic housing. I have removed every screw I can find. Is their a spec sheet somewhere?

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I can not find that model. Click on the link I have provided and look for your machine. You can also contact them for info. I hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Kenmore 19233 sewing machine. Then handwheel is broken, spins freely. Machine works perfectly otherwise. How do I remove the handwheel and replace it.

If the drive belt is not off or broken, then check hand-wheel setting. On some models the hand wheel can be pushed in (to engage) and pulled out (to disengage) for using bobbin winder. If it is disengaged the hand-wheel will spin freely. On older models there is a smaller wheel that has to be hand tightened in order to engage rest of machine. Hope this helps.

Nov 20, 2016 | Kenmore Sewing Machines

1 Answer

The foot pedal is not moving the machine but still makes a noise

A: You said, "The your foot pedal is not moving the machine, but still makes a noise". . . . I'd suggest checking if the sewing machine has a disengaged or broken drive belt, gear or linkage; if not the problem, may just be that the Hand-Wheel clutch mechanism (on the left center of the Hand Wheel) is in the Bobbin-Winding position. If so, it allows the machine to cycle, operating the Bobbin-Winder without the needle moving up or down. Older Brother machines, like many other brands, used a large flat shiny Screw Knob in the center of the Hand Wheel to engage or disengage the Bobbin-Winding feature, newer models use a plastic teeter-totter switch located in the same place, to do the same thing. Keep tinkering, you'll will resolve it.
-- Amender (2016 FEB 23)

Feb 03, 2016 | Brother Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I remove the metal case of my sewing machine so I can replace a belt?

A: You asked, "How do I remove the metal case of my sewing machine so i can replace a belt?" Without the specific Make and Model number it is impossible to give a specific answer, so with such a general question you can only get a general answer regarding Metal-Case machines (since that is the only information you provided in your question).
Many Metal-Case sewing machines usually have either:
(A) External Motors and External Drive-Belts, changing the belt is easy and intuitive.
(B) Internal Motors that are Internal Direct-Drive and have no Drive-Belts to change or adjust.
(C) Internal Motors and Internal Belt-Driven Hand-Wheels, and this is what I assume you have. To change the belt:
(1) Unplug the machine.
(2) Remove the Top-Panel (usually 2 or 3 screws need removal). Some machines (very few) have a pry-off top that has no screws, just internal spring-clips that hold onto nubbins under the lid.
(3) Remove the Left Side-Panel that fits around and under the Hand-Wheel (if it has a side panel; and it may be plastic, there should be 1 or 2 slot-head screws holding it in place. If it just has 1 screw it is generally centrally located; if 2, one may be high and the other low. A few machines also have interlocking tabs that fit into the body, that must be un-puzzeled to remove.
(4) Loosen the motor Drive-Belt Pulley to remove the old belt (it is usually a slotted set-screw or a small Allen Wrench (Hex).
If there is a Part Number on the old belt, use, or measure the old belt and/or use the Part Number to help match it to a new belt. If you have a manual, it may show the Drive-Belt Part Number; there are also Parts Lists for many machines. Less expensive generic parts are often just as good, as long as they are of the correct size, configuration and installed properly. Avoid the rubber-band type giant O-Rings to Drive machines, Belts are better *.
(5) Replace the new Drive-Belt and Drive-Belt Pulley, adjusting the belt tension so the motor can reach full speed without laboring. "A Twee-Bit Too-Loose" is better than being "Too-Tight"., but best to be just right, that is to allow the belt to deflect a little if pressed in the middle, yet tight enough so there is no slippage. A lugged belt (often Orange color, but sometimes Black) makes it much easier, since there is no slippage due to the lugs, and it can allow the machine to turn easier (with less resistance than * tight O-ring Drive-Belts) to sew better with less motor- bushing wear). "Assembly" is the reverse of "Disassembly".
-- Amender (2016 FEB 23)

Jan 30, 2016 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Does the end of the pfaff 7570 sewing machine open up?

Consult your owner's manual. It should show how to open your machine (if it can be opened by other than a professional).


Oct 13, 2015 | PfaFF Creative 7570

1 Answer

How do I remove the top on a Bernina 807 in order to chnage th elong belt ?

V-Belt replacement 801/801 Up Machines

Only the belt cover needs to be removed for this belt change. This is done by removing the three screws on the end/belt cover. Loosen the 5mm Allen socket head screw below the step pulley to relieve the belt tension. Remove the lower motor belt. Lift the step pulley and slide off the hand-wheel, (assuming that you have already removed the release knob and clutch ring).

Additional top cover removals 807/801 Minimatic machines

Early 807 machines had two expansion nipples in the top cover that fit into receptor holes in the upper arm frame. Simply pull up the top cover.

Very late models may have a push button latch mechanism, same as on the 801 machines except those fitted with carrying handles, i.e. 801 Sport, 810 machines.

This is accessed by opening the light cover and finding an aluminum knob in the upper left hand corner of the upper arm frame. Push this in and the cover will release. Lift off the top cover.

Sep 10, 2015 | Bernina Sewing Machines

2 Answers

My Bernina 1130 has a high pitched squeak which seems to be coming from the handwheel area .. any tips to cure it. Machine sews perfectly but it's a very annoying noise.

R A Ellis, any answer might be good enough for you to climb the ratings but it is not specific to the machine model and worse than that is misleading. Generally not helpful.

To Anonymous, your machine does not have the oil holes referred to by RA Ellis: ignore that answer.

What follows is me working on a Bernina 1030 which is very, very similar in this area. An 1130 is slightly fatter at the front to accommodate the electronics on the front panel.

The most likely source of the noise is the idler pulley that links the motor to the rest of the machine. It's perfectly possible to fix this squeak yourself. You will need flat bladed screwdrivers (6mm and 4mm tips are what I used), a thin bladed screwdriver (not a narrow blade but a thin one - see below), a clean rag or tissue, sewing machine oil, and possibly a set of feeler gauges if you want to be really "techy".

Put soft cloth on bench, stand machine on end (don't knock it over). Pull off the two small knobs - don't use a screwdriver to lever them off or you will mark the plastic. Prise out the hand wheel end cover - use your fingernails if possible or possibly the corner of a credit card. Avoid hard edged metal for the same reason as before.
Remove the screw in the centre of the hand wheel (above) and pull out the drive lever: you may need to just prise it up a little at the centre to release it. Pull off the hand wheel. Set the parts aside (below).
Remove the small screw under the hand wheel (above) and the two similar screws underneath (below), all of which retain the end cover. Remove the end cover.
The picture below, from a 1030 shows how the small captive nut is held in the end cover. The 1130 has two. The plastic is not strong so care needed when tightening during reassembly.
Removal of tensioner:
The rather poor picture below shows the 1030 tensioner assembly and tensioning spring. Insert a thin bladed screwdriver between two coils near the bottom and stretch the spring A LITTLE so it can be unhooked. You can remove it from the other end if you wish but don't drop it into the machine.
Using a decent size screwdriver (6mm or a bit bigger), slacken the three big retaining screws that hold the tensioner and remove them all with the washers - don't drop them into the machine. The screws may feel quite tight. Set aside. Disengage the two belts and remove the tensioner assembly (below).
You can see the pulley and you could oil it now. If so, oil BOTH SIDES of the pulley wheel and blot up the excess. One decent drop on each end will suffice. Use sewing machine oil. You will hear Tri-Flow oil recommended by many but this stuff is uncommon in Europe. If in the USA this may be a good choice but I've no personal experience of it. Don't use WD40 or similar - just sewing machine oil.

But if you've come this far:
You can dismantle, clean and make a better job of oiling the assembly. Grab the pulley and try to slide it along the shaft - there's a small amount of end float (I think the Yanks might refer to this as "lash"). You can measure it with a feeler gauge if you have one - I just felt it as the exact amount is not critical - it can't be more than a couple of thou (0.002").

Slacken (half a turn) the grub screw that holds the retaining collar in place and remove it, remove the tufnol washer, the pulley, the tufnol washer and wipe the parts with a clean cloth. Clean the inside of the pulley and notice that the steel plain bearing is in two parts - this is why you need to oil both sides. Replace the washer and the pulley, oil both sides and wipe off excess. Replace the other washer and retaining collar. Tighten the grub screw and make sure that there's a little end float like before. This is important. Check pulley spins freely. The oil will cause some drag.
Hold the tensioner roughly in place and slip the two belts onto the pulley, small belt from the motor first. Put all three fixing screws/washers into place and screw down until very lightly nipped and then back out a quarter to half a turn. Attach the spring to the tensioner and relocate it on it's pin the same way as you took it off.

Retension the drive belts:
Make sure the tensioner fixing screws are not nipping the tensioner. Put the hand wheel onto its shaft but do not fix it. You should be able to move the tensioner around. Rotate the hand wheel a few revolutions and the tensioner will settle into the correct position. Tighten all three screws securely, being mindful that they are going into an alloy casting. That is to say tight but don't strip the alloy thread. Remove the hand wheel.

Refit cover and knobs:
Refit the end cover and again, don't over tighten the screws, particularly this on the bottom. Refit the hand wheel, drive lever and fixing screw. Replace the knobs.

This has taken longer to write than the job takes to do!

Hope this helps. Applies to 10xx series, 11xx and probably the 12xx. Old 9xx similar enough in principle too.

Feb 26, 2015 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Stop motion knob will not disengage the needle when winding a bobbin

The stop motion knob on most older sewing machines is very much the same. You should find a small screw on the face of the knob. Loosen this but don't take it all the way out, it is real easy to lose and hard to find a replacement. Loosen it until you can turn the knob counterclockwise past the stop. Now remove the knob and there will be funny shaped washer underneath. Pay attention to how it goes on, you will have to put it back the same way.
Now to the "why" of your problem. The assembly has run dry, no oil, and the hand wheel should turn freely on the center shaft. You may be able to get some oil in with no problem or you may have to remove the motor belt to remove the hand wheel.
I find this a lot on old machines, nothing broken, just no oil.
Good luck,

Feb 05, 2014 | Montgomery Ward Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore Sewing Machine 1703 belt

turn the hand wheel, perhaps?

Feb 05, 2018 | Kenmore Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I am having a problem with the hand feed. It is slipping, and spins on it's own without engaging the main shaft. If I push in towards the shaft with my hand on the plastic hand feed, it will engage. But...

I think that you have a broken belt, or it slipped off of the shaft. Open your machine, by removing the screws and take a look. Belts are not hard to get.

Nov 18, 2010 | Singer Sewing Machines

2 Answers

My manual for the White sewing machine Model 1780

There should be two screws on the top of the machine. Those need to come off first. Most
Whites have a top that comes off in that way. On the hand wheel side there is usually one or two screws to remove that metal piece (below the hand wheel). Then the base should come off just by removing those screws on the bottom. As far as oiling, lubricate any point where two pieces come together and there is movement except the belt area.

Mar 17, 2010 | White Sewing 1780 Sewing Machine

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