Question about Krups KM4065 12-Cup Coffee Maker
Plugged in and has coffee and water. Power button comes on but nothing happens
Could be clogged pump or bad pump, I have also seen where you need to let the water reach a certain temp. before it will begin to brew
Posted on Jul 15, 2012
I've had the thermal fuses blow out on my Krups KT406 coffee maker twice now, with slightly different symptoms for each failure. The first time the power light would come on, then switch off after 5-10 seconds. That was when the 229 degree Celsius thermal fuse blew. Most recently, the light would come on, stay on, but nothing else would happen. This time it was the 192 degree C fuse. Please note that these parts never got close to their rated failure temperatures; they just decided to go bad. I got both replacement part from Amazon (~$4.50 each). Just search for "thermal fuse 229 degrees" and you'll get it. Now, regarding soldering these parts into place - Because solder melts at around 200 degrees C, which is the supposed failure point of these parts, you're better off clamping the replacements onto the wires. I got these at Amazon, too. Gardner Bender 10-310C Crimp Connectors, and GB GS-388 8-Inch Crimping Pliers. Regular pliers would probably work, but I wanted to squeeze it good.
Posted on Apr 18, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Mine had the same problem ... all the lights are on, but no heating on the plate, and no dripping of water.
After a weekend on the workbench, I've mastered this machine. The KM7005 has 2 x MicroTemp G4 thermal cutoff (TCO) fuses which interrupt the Live line, for overheat protection. Mine didn't overheat per se, but the TCO blew anyway. Not reset-able ... need to be replaced with a soldering iron. I'll be happy to advise you to fix this, or fix it for you. Write me at KM7005@flightsystems.biz.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
I just had the same failure, but fortunately, had already bought a used 10-cup unit a few months back as a spare.
The component in question is a thermal circuit breaker, of the sort which does not reset. Once activated, it is destroyed,
I have been unsuccessful locating the same component on the internet, but it seems to be a very high temperature unit, with the nomenclature "Tf 318 C" which because of the lower case "f", leads me to conclude that it's designed to trip at 318 degrees, C, or a very healthy 604 degrees, F.
Similar fuses in other appliances range around 230 degrees C (446 degrees F), which is in the ballpark.
The failure is easy to verify. If blown, there will be powdery white residue on the inside of the bottom plastic cover near the part. Also, an ohmeter will show an open circuit across the contacts. (Unplug the unit before measuring!)
Screws to remove the bottom cover are three tamper resistant torx screws.
If I am unable to find an exact replacement, I will use a thermal fuse in the same power and temperature range (10 Amps, 300 degrees C trip).
Because my unit unequivocably did not experience over temperature conditions, I suspect this is a component aging issue and that there is no other problem with the coffee maker.
Supporting this is the fact that the unit works fine after I moved the good part from my spare coffeemaker to the dead one.
Posted on Apr 13, 2008
SOURCE: My Krups won't brew
The culprit is probably the thermal fuse. It's under the bottom cover, and you have to have Torx security bits (the ones with the holes in the middle) to remove the three screws holding it in place. Sadly, the thermal fuse is not resettable. Once it's tripped, it's dead. If you have this problem, forget about getting Krups or their lame service agent, smallappliance.com, to repair it. Both contacts I had with Krups were unsatisfactory. The factory/customer service folks say that there are no parts available and to buy a new coffee pot. Great solution. You can damn well believe it won't be a Krups. Or is it ****? An otherwise perfectly functioning unit gets sent to the landfill because the folks at Krups can't be troubled to find the part number. Idiots. For your info, there are thermal interrupters made by several manufacturers. The trip temperature on the breaker is 318 degrees, C. Something in the neighborhood of 200 degrees C would probably work, but would have to be soldered in. If you are comfortable with doing that, it's a solution.
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
Mine had the same problem ... all the lights are on, grinding works fine, but no heat on the plate, and no dripping of water.
After a weekend on the workbench, I mastered this machine. The KM7005 has 2 x MicroTemp G4 thermal cutoff (TCO) fuses which interrupt the Live line, for overheat protection. Mine didn't overheat per se, but the TCO blew anyway. Not reset-able ... need to be replaced with a soldering iron. To date, I have helped 13 people on this site fix this exact problem.
I'll be happy to advise you to fix this, or fix it for you. Write me at KM7005@flightsystems.biz.
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
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