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Its like someone hits the button on the remote and then the alarm goes sirein off all crazy, all night, please help me get some sleep. i think its brain dead

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  • jt_towns Mar 25, 2009

    i all ready did what u said kevin last night when i couldn"t sleep and the alarm is still going hay wire, i guess i need to go the local shop, could best buy help me.

  • jt_towns Mar 25, 2009

    ok kevin i really dont want to pay another tech support guy 3.99 for the same question, so i disconnected the brain box and reconnected it, hopefully that helps, thats what best buy told me to try. i explained my problem to best buy and they said it might be my brain box (dead)

  • jt_towns Mar 27, 2009

    well guys i took my truck to best buy today and the geek squad looked at the alarm and realize that it might be the shock sensor box or need a new alarm, so he unpluged the shock sensor box and i,d had no problem yet, (its quiet) so should i have my shock sensor box replaced or what.

  • jt_towns Mar 27, 2009

    well guys i guess the shock sensor didn,t work either, so my next step is i dont know. my alarm went off again at midnight so moving on to the next step. i just dont have 400 bucks right now for a new alarm system, so please somebody help me.

  • jt_towns Mar 29, 2009

    cool thanks

  • jt_towns Mar 31, 2009

    i already unpluged the shock sensor box and i,v heard the alarm twice since then, now it just stopped, so im not going to touch it since it quit setting it self off thanks for u,r advice

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Hello jt_towns,

So your alarm has a mind of it's own huh? I see in the comments page, that you have the sensor box disconnected, but you say it is still going off on it's own? Heres what I suggest: Check any and all fuses on, or related to the alarm; if all fuses are good, check all the wiring, from the fuse box, battery, ground etc. In a lot, if not most electrical failures, the ground is usually the problem. Make sure that it is securely grounded; I do not suggest grounding to the frame, as the frame gets wet dirty and damaged. Any part of the body, anything metal that screws or bolts to the body is in some way or another indirectly or directly in contact with the frame, which in turn is grounded by the battery. If it's not the ground, check the "hot" or "power" wire, and make sure the wire didn't get cut, or frayed during installation. Do the same for the "source" or "nuetral" wire. Once you have successfully checked all these wires, and you are confident that the ground is good, try engaging, or reconnecting the sensor box. If you have the installation instructions, find the place that describes the installation of the box, which should also tell you how to set the sensativity level on the box. There should be a small lever or switch than can be moved side to side, or turned by hand or with a small screwdriver. Also, if a warranty was given, it may be best to uninstall the entire system, and return it to the merchant (if possible) as a faulty unit. You should be refunded, or have be given the choice to get a new system. I hope this information is useful, and that I haven't repeated anything you may have already been told. Thank you.

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

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The shock/impact sensor seems the culprit here.It's likely to be found under the dash area, blinking
when anything taps on the underpanel.
Locate and either unplug or turn down.To simply disarm it, locate and use the valet/overide switch. To start, look under the dash area for a button or, a toggle switch. When you locate it, turn on the ignition key, press and hold in the button (little spring loaded micro button, red or black possibly)
until the alarm chirps 1 time. This should over ride the system, and only the keyless entry part,if installed, would still be operating.The LED (light emiting diode) light in the dash should also go on solid.=VALET/OVERIDE

This stops the alarm except for the keyless entry if installed. The next step is to either remove the alarm or, try to identify, and get new remotes for it.

But once in Valet mode, it will allow the car to start and operate like there was no alarm at all.

Let me know how it goes.
Thank you!

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

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Wow, it sounds like you have been runaround with this thing...

i regret to tell you though, that the alarm module is bad, and will need to be replaced.

this means a whole new alarm.

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

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Call the service dept. that sells this model and explain the problem - they may have a suggestion for you over the phone. I worked at a car dealership for a long time & sometimes we run into things like this that can be a common problem that take a simple fix. Or, take your vehicle to the dealer and take both key fobs along. Have the dealer replace the batteries in both fobs at the same time (I know you just replaced them) and synchronize them together. The dealer should be able to perform a diagnostic check of the computer module that actually operates the alarm itself depending on the year/make/model car you have. The dealer should check the setting on your dome light as well as if your doors and trunks are latching properly and if the door jamb switch is working. There may be a service bulletin that pertains to this problem - meaning this could be a common problem with this vehicle and the dealer will know right away what it will take to fix this problem and it might save you a lot of time/money/aggravation.

Sorry for the bearer of bad news, this would be the solution. You need to take the car alongwith alarm box to dealer.I hope that you would accept the solution gracefully as there is no short cut to this.
There might be millions of reasons for the alarm to go on and on and its not possible to discuss each and every reason without looking at the alarm. We might assume that's a big issue, However, in the end it might be a small battery issue.
Sorry, But hope you do agree and thanks for using Fixya.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Mar 27, 2009

    You can check whether its better to repair or replace. I would advise you to go for replacement.


    Thanks.

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Try The Following Procedure To Disarm/Disable It.

To start with, you can identify which after market
system you have by using the FCC. ID.# found
on the back of each remote. Try a site
like www.keynfob.com or remotes4you.com
to track down the one you have in your hand.

Now let's put the system into overide mode.

As far as the valet/overide button, it's a hidden
device-switch, a little spring loaded micro button,
red or black possibly and is probably down under
the dash area, near your knee/leg. In some
remote start/alarm combos, the antenna on the window
glass will also have an override/valet button.
Older sytems will have a flip type toggle switch.

When you locate the button or switch,
turn on the ignition key, press and hold
in the button until the alarm chirps 1 time
(for toggle types, key on, flip switch in the
opposite direction, then key off)

This should over ride the system, and only the
keyless entry part, if installed, would still be
operating.

You would get a single chirp to confirm from the siren.
The LED (light emiting diode) light in the dash
should also go on solid. This is valet/overide/reset.
This should correct any issues like starter disable,
or anti-hijack. Your keyless entry, if installed,
will still be operable. The have it inspected for the
falsing issues you are experience at a local shop.

You would repeat the same steps to toggle
back into user mode.

That should do it for 90% of the after market alarms
out there.

Kevin

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

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