Question about Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in Dishwasher
Dd603 bottom drawer fills and then starts as if to start the cycle then the water block (tap symbol) comes up and the programme stops. have checked the water valve ohm reading and get 65 ohms from each solenoid and the top drawer works perfectly. could it be a hall sensor fault or is there something else to look at?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
When it stops and beeps can you tell me all lights that are on when you open the drawer cheers. also check to see if the water in the tub is hot if not you have a heating issue. either a faulty element or Mtr Controller module. try swapping the Mtr Controller module (computer board) from the top drawer to the bottom drawer and see if that moves the fault. cheers
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Is the filter in the hose where it screws onto the tap clean?, if this is okay then most likely the valve.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
Testimonial: "Hi, Thanks so much for the reply. I checked the filter in the hose and it appears 'clean'. As you said it may be the valve. Thank you Stephen"
I had the opportunity to work on a Fisher & Paykel DD632 dishdrawer a couple days ago. By the way, I am a big fan of Fisher & Paykel equipment--if you ever have the opportunity to work on one, you'll see why. The engineering is elegant in its simplicity. Well-engineered equipment is actually much easier to work on because they have designed serviceability into the product.
Anyway, the problem with this particular dishdrawer was that the top drawer (with an 11 minute wash) was giving an F1 error code after the initial rinse, about five minutes into the cycle. The F1 code indicates an overfill condition. One of the most common causes for an overfill fault is that the dishwasher cannot pump out the dirty water due to a plugged drain hose.
So, I put the dishdrawer into diagnostic mode and tested the fill and pump out functions--everything was peachy. I ran the top drawer in a normal wash cycle and, sho 'nuff, the drawer faulted out on F1 after the first rinse. Well, Houston, we had a problem and it was time for the Samurai to break open a can of whup-*** on this dishdrawer. First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer.
Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.
With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gook us. None found--my quest continued.
The next step to remove the bottom drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the bottom cover panel removed:
Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.
With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms.
After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.
I had a flash-back to my Navy days and heard Petty Officer (AT1) Crowe's voice in my head, "Here, take this ruby red eraser and clean off them contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. Good to go, Sailor." You gotta understand, Petty Officer Crowe was my technical guru in the Navy--he taught me many of the practical and theoretical troubleshooting skills that I still use today.
So I cleaned the contacts as instructed by Petty Officer Crowe's mental image in my brain and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.
OR ,if this is not the case next thing to look for is
If you have problems with a plugged drain hose
Your dishwasher sounds like it's working up a storm, draining all that yucky dirty water out, but you open the door and all that dirty water is still there. Houston, we have a problem. OK, grasshopper, go grab you a cold one and hang on for a magical mystery tour into what causes dishwasher draining problems, also called the ancient and mystical art of dishwasher drainology. Let's take 'em one at a time:
* Using Too Much Detergent
Some fancy dishwashers with electronic controls have sensors that detect when the pump is not pumping water. Using too much detergent creates a great head of foam in the dishwasher basin, like pouring a beer too fast into a glass. So if you use too much soap in one of these so-equipped dishwashers, the sensors think the dishwasher is empty and cuts off the pump (For you gadget geeks out there, it senses the pump work by using a sensing resistor in series with the motor main winding.) While we're talking about detergents, that store bought stuff you're using is screwing up your dishwasher
* You Forgot to Remove the Disposal Drain Port Knockout Plug
# This usually only applies to the situation where you just installed a disposal and connected the dishwasher drain hose to the drain port on the disposal. Believe it or not, this happened to me on my first disposal installation job, too...no, not really. But I have seen many a grasshopper stumped by this.
# Drain Solenoid Not Opening
Some brands, notably GE/Hotpoint and Magic Chef, use a drain solenoid to open and close the dishwasher drain port. If this solenoid isn't opening during the drain cycle, could be a bad timer or solenoid.
# Worn Pump Impeller
Other dishwashers, like Whirlpool and KitchenAid, don't use a drain solenoid but instead reverse the motor to drain the basin. One possible reason for poor draining in this type of dishwasher is a worn pump impeller. You usually figure this by elimination...no, not that kind of elimination you dawg! I mean, if all the other suspects listed here check out OK, then you've got a worn pump impeller. The rebuilding kit for this repair is very inexpensive and is a great beer drinking project.
# Kinked or Plugged Drain Hose
Drain hoses can become kinked or crimped from poor installation, stuff being moved around, lots of reasons. It happens.This page on drain hose configuration shows you several approved drain hose layouts. Drain hoses can also get plugged from gookus. Plugs usually occur at the one of the drain ports--either on the dishwasher or at the other end. The best test is to take the drain hose off at the dishwasher and pucker up and blow like a fish. Yep, it can be pretty nasty putting your mouth on that stuff but, hey, that's why we appliance techs make the big money.
# Air Gap Plugged with Gookus
Plumbing codes may require an air gap in your dishwasher drain hose and many houses have 'em. These air gaps do a great job of keeping sewer water from backing up into your dishwasher but they can become a source of problems, too. Sometimes, they'll get plugged with gookus and they'll need to be cleaned out. If it's real bad or corroded, do yourself a favor and install a new air gap kit.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
Posted on Jul 12, 2010
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