Question about Washing Machines
This could be a safety feature. Check your pump is not blocked with any debris like coins or even socks as the last few spins are to disperse the water from the system before you open up the machine. If it cannot do this cycle it may end up cutting out as the pump is blocked.
could also mean the belt needs renewal or tightening up .
Posted on Jan 09, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The LR can means that the motor has failed or the spinner shaft is seized to the bearing.
Check the wiring harness to the motor it may be loose.
See if you can turn the tub by hand.
If the tub is free and the wiring harness is good preform the motor test.
You will find the test paper in the console.
Posted on Jul 11, 2008
LR usually means that the the signal from the board is not getting to the motor either because of a bad connection at either the motor or the board or the motor itself is no good. Need to check the connections first.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
The error code you describe is not listed in Maytag's book of codes. The link below will take you to Maytag's website error code page where you might be able to match it up.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
“E3” code – Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach
response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)
Possible causes of ‘E3’ codes: 1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause. 2. Hall Sensor fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3” code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire harness connector(s) to motor.
Hall Sensor – PCB that is located on the back of the motor that senses motor rpm. It is not a separate part, but rather an integral part of the motor.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
From another source...
"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.
If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.
It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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