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GE GSH22JSTA SS panel dead, compresson won't run

I have a GSH22JSTA SS refrigerator. It's had the defrost heater and thermistor upgrades. Today, the panel went dead and the compressor stopped running. The refrigerator and freezer lights still come on. Should I replace the control board? Or is there something else I should check?

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  • 40 Answers

I would replace Control board.

Posted on Apr 03, 2014


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  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: GE refrigerator/freezer

Need to check voltage coming from control. If no voltage you need to replace main board on the rear of ref.

Posted on Jul 17, 2008


Farley Redfield

  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Posted on Apr 17, 2009


  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: Frig/Freezer not cooling properly

by the sound of it i would go for a new fan.

Posted on Dec 13, 2009


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE refrigerator won't keep cool

check the voltage going into you fan w/ the old main board and also w/ the new board. You might be getting a low voltage w/ your new board or the fan you replaced is for a diferent voltage. Have you tried to put the old fan back w/ the new board??

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

danny Hendrickson

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: i have a GE Adora

it sounds as though you have had a fan short out,be it an evaporator fan inside the freezer or refrigerator or the condenser fan down in the rear area,if one of these shorts out they will definately ruin this control board,before you replace the control find out which fan it is or it will ruin the new card immediately,the board is G.E. # WR55X10942 it is a new improved version of any other board now

Posted on Nov 30, 2010

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I have aGSS25XSSQA SS refrigerator seems to have stopped making cold.

Frost buildup on the rear panel of the freezer indicates a defrost problem. Your model has the defrost timer built into the motherboard and for some reason that is unlikely to fail. What does go bad is the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat on your GSS25XSSQASS. Click HERE to view the parts listed as location 240 and 230 GSS25XSSQASS Freezer Components

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It sounds like the # 4 thermistor is bad . You will have to remove the lower inside rear freezer panel ( 2 or 4 screws ) and on the top of the coils , you will see a 1 " long torpedo looking piece , clipped on , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . This thermistor , tells the maon control board , the temperature of the freezer coils ( evaporator ) and when to defrost and when to stop defrosting and turn the compressor back on . There is also a defrost thermostat which cuts the heater off to keep from over heating , but I do not believe this is part of your problem . You should also replace the # 5 thermistor , located behind the oval grill , mounted on the lower right side of the freezer . This thermistor , tells the main control board , the temperature of the freezer section .

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Appears to go into an extended defrost cycle.

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I have provided you with some liinks that will help you understand how your refrigerator works, courtesy of, A manual defrost usually consists of a hot air blower which will melt accumulated frost or ice so that normal air flow can be attained. This does not repair the unit, but it will allow temporary operation until a servicer can be scheduled. Automatic defrost Years ago, all refrigerators had to be defrosted manually. You would turn the refrigerator off, open the door(s), and allow any frost build-up to melt. When the frost had completely melted away, you would turn the refrigerator back on.

Today, all but the smaller, apartment-sized refrigerators are self-defrosting. Self-defrosting means what it implies--though frost continues to accumulate inside the refrigerator, it melts automatically. The self-defrosting system has three functional components:

1.Defrost heater
2.Defrost thermostat.
3.Electronic Control
1. Defrost heater The defrost heater is similar to the burners on an electric stove. It's located just beneath the cooling coils, which are concealed behind a panel in the freezer compartment. The heater gets hot. And, because it's close to the cooling coils, any ice or frost build-up melts.

As the frost and ice melt, the resulting water drips into a trough. The trough is connected to a tube that drains the water into a shallow pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. The water is then evaporated by a fan that blows warm air from the compressor motor over the pan and out the front of the refrigerator.

2.Defrost thermostat The process ends after either the amount of time specified on the timer or when the defrost thermostat near the cooling coils senses that the heat near the coils has reached a specific temperature.

3.Electronic Control
This part controls all functions and may be the number 1 item causing the problem. You will need to locate the trouble-shooting instructions, (usually in a shipping envelope somewhere behind the toe plate, under the freezer compartment)

4. Thermistor
This is a monitoring device and is usually not a suspect part.

1. Defrost Heater

2. Defrost Thermostat

3.Electronic control


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If you need further help, reach me via phone at

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