Question about Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer
Will not stop agitating, cannot drain, rinse or spin in any cycle chosen
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore washer won't drain
The symptoms you describe are often caused by a lid switch malfunction. It may be loose or not making good contact. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:
This is a simple and inexpensive repair if you wish to accomplish this on your own. A replacement switch usually cost between $25 and $35. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you require further assistance.
Posted on Aug 17, 2008
with the machine off, turn the cycle dial around 3x very harshly, then try it again. If it works normally now, you'll need a new cycle switch soon!
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
NOTE: There is no need to drain the washer to repair the lid switch. However, if you need to drain the washer to avoid having stagnant water in the tub, you can by-pass the lid switch. Use the steps provided to access the lid swtich. Unplug the switch and remove it from the washer. With the switch in your hand, cut the connector plug off leaving about two inches of wire. Cut the center conductor (green wire) off flush with the plug. Take the two black wires and crimp them together and insulate with some electrical tape, or use a wire lug. You now have made yourself a by-pass plug. Plug this back into the timer plug and you have now by-passed the lid switch.
NOTE: This is to only be used as a TEMPORARY means of operating the washer and not as a permanent fix. The lid switch is installed as a safety feature to stop the washer motion when the lid is opened. Without it, you will not be able to stop the washer unless you push the timer knob in. Make sure you replace the lid switch.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
SOURCE: 22432 won't spin or drain
CHECK THE LID SWITCH THE PART THAT PUSHES THE SWITCH DOWN MAY BE WORN ENOUGH TO CAUSE THIS PROBLEM. WITH THE LID OPEN START THE WASHER IN THE SPIN CYCLE AND PUSH THE SWITCH WITH A POPSICKEL STICK AND SEE IF THIS PROBLEM STILL HAPPENS
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
Check your lid switch. The symptoms of your washer stopping at the rinse cycle is a commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare. If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number if different from the one listed. I hope this information is helpful to you.
NOTE: "110" is not the model number. This is the prefix on the model number that identifies the manufacturer of your washer. 110 indicates the washer was manufactured by Whirlpool.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
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