Question about Samsung RS2556 Side by Side Refrigerator
We have a Samsung RS2556SH. The digital readout started blinking at 38 degrees. So I followed the manual and unplugged the unit for 9 mins and reset the fridge. When the unit came back online, it stopped blinking but the temperature went up to 58 degrees and has not cooled back to down 38.
The temp will sometimes make it to 54, but it will not cool any lower. The freezer side is working perfectly fine. I do not have any frost built up in the freezer or the back panel. It seems like the fridge crisper bins and the tray directly above the chiller bin is the coldest. The temperature seems to get warmer at the top of the refrigerator.
Ok, what I found out is that there are codes built into the front panel. If you hold the top left and right buttons for 5 seconds, the fridge will reset. If there are no issues, the panel goes blank. If there is a dash in the right side of the panel, there is an issue with the fridge side. In the left, freezer side. The dash indicates a defrost problem. Only a couple of things can cause this. 1. Sensor 2. Heater 3. Fan, 4. control board.
Posted on Jul 02, 2008
I had the same problem freezer fine, fridge would not cool below 56 deg. I had the board replaced and the problem remained. Turns out that indeed the evaporator coils were frozen over. Solution: Take out all drawers including the one with the separate cooler part (two screws). Then take out all screws and remove the center column which reveals the evaporator coils. Mine were completely frozen over, not even 24 hours of thawing would have defrosted them. I put a space heater in the thing and it took two hours to defrost the coils: Here is a picture:
Samsung RS2556 - Refrigerator side is not cooling - 332d8f5.jpgmg src="/uploads/images/332d8f5.jpg" alt="332d8f5.jpg" class="h_mi" /> Again, no idea why the defrosters did not kick in, but hopefully the new board ($103) solves that problem. Otherwise buy a small fridge and defrost the big boy once every 6 months or so. Now the fridge works great, I sometimes sit in front of it and look at it. Well you get the idea.
Posted on May 05, 2008
Awesome write up from all of you. And this whole article is
absolutely right on target. May I add.... My RS25 series
side by side also stopped cooling in the fridge, but freezer was good. Mine looked just like the pictures above, solid block of clear ice.
I sliced about one inch of the thick insulation off the bottom the foam to let water escape, I then drilled a 1/4 inch hole from fridge
through to condensor area (don't hit the condensor !), then ran
some water line (like the icemaker uses) from the hole.
I plan to add a drain pan underneath the fridge and put the line through the bottom. Just like it should have been done.
I used a blow dryer to get all the ice melted.
Now the fridge is awesome cold.
One more note: my digital display said 34, but the fridge was way warmer. After unplugging and plugging in (reboot) the display
started showing a much higher temp. So I am suggesting that the display
can get stuck. Something to watch out for.
And lastly, you bet I complained to Costco and to Samsung.
They are not likely to budge and even acknowledge this design flaw.
The only way to protect ourselves is to never-ever buy a Samsung applaince again.
Posted on May 08, 2009
Check the defrost circuit here is a helpful link to a service manual..in it t tells you how to initiate Forced Operation of defrost cycle.
Press Power Freeze and Fridge Temp. buttons for 8 seconds simultameously to get in the ready mode for a forced
The display panel will return to normal after 20 seconds in the ready mode.
At the ready mode, press any button(except Ice Type and Child Lock) once to start a pull-down operation, twice for a
defrost cycle for the refrigerator, three times for a defrost cycle for the freezer and the refrigerator, and finally four times
for cancellation of this function.
Another way to cancel this function is to simply plug out and in the power cord.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
This relates to the Samsung RS21 series side by side fridge freezersold in the UK, and is copied from the site for "Watchdog" a BBC TV programme.
"Consultant engineer Malcolm Robbins explains: "This fridge has a fundamental design fault because water which drains from the evaporator coil during defrost cannot escape. Ice forms on the coil, grows back to the fan, hits the fan blades and stops the fan running. After that the fridge won't work." Malcolm said he didn't think it was right that customers should have to foot the bill for repairs and that the fridge was not 'fit for purpose'.We contacted some fridge service engineers and seven out of the ten we called were familiar with the problems with the Samsung fridge"
In the UK Samsung are extending the warranty to five years to cater for this.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
Here is an extract from BBC's 'Watchdog' consumer tv programme regarding the RS21 series of samsung fridge freezers sold in the UK. These seem to have a similar defect to their US equivalent.
Consultant engineer Malcolm Robbins explains: "This fridge has a fundamental design fault because water which drains from the evaporator coil during defrost cannot escape. Ice forms on the coil, grows back to the fan, hits the fan blades and stops the fan running. After that the fridge won't work." Malcolm said he didn't think it was right that customers should have to foot the bill for repairs and that the fridge was not 'fit for purpose'.
We contacted some fridge service engineers and seven out of the ten we called were familiar with the problems with the Samsung fridge.
It's all very well for an appliance to look smart in your kitchen. But some of the people who fell for the Samsung RS21's sleek good looks and 'unique cooling technology' now wonder if it might not be more at home in a fridge scrap yard.
Company Response Samsung Electronics would like to personally apologise to any of its customers who have experienced this problem with an RS21 Side by Side fridge-freezer.
Samsung Electronics identified this manufacturing problem with the RS21 through its ongoing quality control procedures. Samsung Electronics has subsequently introduced an improved model of the RS21 and notified all Samsung certified service engineers of the improvement process and parts required.
Having reviewed these particular cases and its service policy with regard to the RS21, Samsung Electronics will provide an extended five-year warranty from date of purchase in respect of this fault. This will entitle any customer experiencing this fault to receive a free service engineer's visit and repair. This extended warranty will be in effect immediately.
Samsung Electronics would ask any customers who have this problem with their RS21 to call this freephone number, 0800 988 0123, to arrange for it to be fixed under this extended warranty. Samsung Electronics would like to reassure all customers of its commitment to quality customer service and would ask anyone with questions to call the number above.
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
I have RS2555 in same problem.my warranty is expired and Samsung hooked me up to an technician who asked for 300.00 for labor plus parts and tax, what a rip off!!I I called my Canadian friend who's a technician and I was told to POWER OFF the RS2555 for 24 hrs.both doors MUST open and take out all drawers,he said ,it is 90% the ICE blocked the cool airflowing,so if ICE melted,all will return to normal.
It works after I did what he said.share this and hope can help some one with same problem!
Posted on Mar 26, 2008
I have same problem my evaporator turns to block of ice at first they replaced the heater on the right side of evaporator but heater wasn't the problem and it still did it! the problem is the control panel does not defrost the evaporator on fridge side the circuit it the control panel fried and doesn't send signal to defrost heater on fridgeside evaporator! this control panel controls several functions but only one function wasn't working! ask you repairman to put fridge in manual defrost mode(it cose of holding buttons on panel) if it will not go into manual defrost like mine would not you will need a new control panel! it cause me alot of aggrivation before o actually got a decent repairman with intelligenge and an electrical tester to figure this out! make sure he tries to put fridge in manual forced defrost mode then if display panel doesn't allow this function to work it is your panel! i have rs2556sh it has been a problem for a while and when the defrost your evaporator with the hair dryer the fridge will work fine for several weeks but the problem will come back when the eveaporator freezes up after several weeks and airflow is restricted!
Posted on Mar 12, 2008
Check freon level,blockage or effeciency of compressor.
Posted on Nov 06, 2007
I have one of these refrigerators that has moved to the garage. (junk) It has the same problems all of you have. I did learn if you hold the top two button in at the same time for 10 seconds, or till the display goes off, it will reset the board to factory parameters. (settings), but that doesn't get the ice off the coils. I read all of your problems and one thing that I learned that will help most of you is that the fans will not run with the doors open, so when you defrost or deice, before you put all of the panels on, support you fan and hold the light switch, within a few seconds your fan will start if its good. I have a new fan and board in mine that im sure it didnt need but every time I walk by mine in the garage the displays are reading -4 and 36. Almost like it is begging me to go back in the house. (never happen) wanna buy a new board or other parts. Im junking mine. Jfw46@hotmail.com
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
I have done this on two different model Samsungs and one has worked for 6 years now and the other 4 but the relay must have gone on the second one. After you are sure all sensors work and the voltage is proper on the manual defrost cycle. This worked for me.. yes, I am an engineer. I read the schematic on the Samsung and see one potential issue on it, one of the reset ports they should have tied the pin and not left it floating, this can put the chip in lala land as we call it on a brownout or power down cycle.
Anyway here is the way I cheated. and as I said from being a piece of junk it has worked for 6 years on one and did for 4 on another. Here is what I did, all parts on my fridge worked, i tested all sensors and so on. so you must rule out all non-functioning parts. when defrosted I opened it and with everything plugged in, yet accessible I put it in manual defrost and could see the water drip. So i noticed it really did not get hot enough. so I put in a 2.2 Kohm resistor in series to the thermostat.so from the Samsung chart it brings it up to 90degrees vs 60. and I also took a piece of aluminum flashing and wrapped it around the upper heat tube and had it slide all the way to the drain plug, it was about 6 inches wide on the top and tapered down to about a quarter inch as it goes in the drain to stop that area from freezing up. my fridge was freezing up 3-4 weeks, and it has been 6 weeks and it has not frooooze up. Update now 7 years..
Posted on Sep 07, 2017
Same problem with my Samsung. I've had 3 different companies and over 20 tech visits, and it still ices up!
What I can offer is my technique for defrosting the fridge in about a hour from start to finish.
Before you get started you will need:
An empty 2 liter soda bottle
Access to hot tap water
LOTS of towels
Philips head screwdriver
Blowdryer (and extension cord if necessary)
Buckets or bins to store food in for the duration
Pull the fridge away from the wall
Remove food and shelves from the fridge.
Remove the screws from the back panel. (keep 'em in your pocket)
Carefully unplug and remove back panel. Ice buildup may make this difficult, even impossible. Skip to the next step until the panel comes loose.
By now you should be able to see the ice. Fill that soda bottle with hot tap water (NOT boiling hot, just tap hot)
Douse the ice with the hot water, working top to bottom.
Use the towels to catch and mop up all that water.
As ice chunks come loose, pull them out. Do NOT force them, only take out loose chunks.
Once the ice is gone, use a towel to mop up any excess water.
Give the whole thing a going over with the blow dryer. Less water left behind means it will take longer to ice up.
Douse the back panel you removed with hot water too. Towel off and blow dry.
Replace back panel (make sure you plug it in!)
Replace shelves and food.
The initial reading will be quite high (you did just blast it with a blow dryer), but should cool pretty quickly.
The whole procedure should take you about an hour. A second pair of hands is always helpful. Good luck!
Posted on Jan 04, 2015
The problem you seems to have is on the defrost cycle which if fails causes the fan to iced up stopping it from blowing cold air around the fridge hence why the bottom section is the coldest. As for the temperature sensor they can be tested we have had quite a few different engineers out to look at our fridge who all replaced the fan and heater this did not cure the problem when by chance we got hold of an engineer who does work for samsung he came and tested all the compnents and found that the fault all along was the temperature sensor which he replaced over a year now and we have had no further problems. This is their web address if anyone is intrested they are called ags refrigeration.
Posted on Jul 05, 2012
This is a follow up on a previous 'solution' (# 5 above)) which did not really solve the problem. This one is. After taking off the evaporator coil panels, you will most likely see that they are frozen over. This can be caused by the defrosting units not kicking in, but it is far more likely that the fan motor that distributes air through the fridge is shot. The trick is to take out the panels of both the fridge and the freezer and to exchange the motors (switch the whole motor mounting plate, just move the wiring harness over). If after defrosting the coils with the heater now the fridge works and the freezer starts acting up (or vice versa), you have a bad motor. Order one from www.partstore.com for 36 bucks, model number DA31-00020E and replace the faulty motor. Be careful taking the fan off, take the spring off and push the fan off the shaft with a flat screwdriver otherwise you run the risk of breaking the fan. Here are two pics of the motor and the label on the box.
Posted on May 17, 2008
I have had a serviceman out for this.
Normal function of the fridge is that the refrgerant cools the evaporator coils. There is a fan that blows the air in the fridge past these evaporator coils, cooling the air. As long as air flows fine, there is no issue.
Taking out all the drawers and removing the cover from the evaporator unit at the back of the fridge exposed the evaporator. And there was ice caked up all around it. The ice restricts the airflow greatly, and if the air can't blow across the cool coils then the air can't get cooled and voila, the fridge side doesn't get as cool as it's supposed to.
There is an automatic defroster, so ice shouldn't build up, still trying to figure out why the autodefrost is not working.
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
Re: Samgsung Fridge RS263BBWP. after i took off the cover (it has 7 screws) i took a hairdryer to the coils. it was the same. a block of ice. the fan that you will discover does not operate when the door is open (as noted above). realizing that i will also be "hairdryer defrosting" when it ices up again i only installed a couple of the mounting screws. i thought it might make it easier in the future. i may re-engineer the draining design like mentioned above, drain tube and all. at least the freezer is ok and i could transfer some of the food over(beer). this is my third fridge in four years (all different makes) nothing is made to last anymore, made in the usa doesnt mean a whole lot (regrettably) when it comes to fridges. "1 year limited warranty"....just look for a good used one through a reputable used appliance store (get 30 days to return) and dont spend more than a few hundred dollars a year on anything. check your local craigslist for a cheap repairman. i found one in the charlotte area $89.99 for almost all repairs. yes its frustrating, at least the newer ones are not as heavy to replace...
Posted on May 23, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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