Question about Refrigerators
After finding freezer door ajar I shut the door then 2 weeks later the freezer froze up and unit stopped cooling. Unplugged unit until ice melted. Replaced 1 thermistor in fridge and main board. Then plugged fridge back in. Unit worked for a week then froze up again and started warming up. Freezer and fridge tempts were set on 0 and 37. Freezer stayed at 0 but fridge went down to 36. After a day or two the temps in both sides of unit began to fluctuate. Freezer tempts ranged from -2 to 4 and fridge from 34 to 37. Then the unit began to warm up and eventually would not stay cool at all.
Posted by Anonymous on
Truth is... a WEEK is what you will get if the door gaskets are all in pretty good condition and the DEFROST circuit is not working AT ALL... Easy to prove: The defrost pan should have water drained into it about twice daily (mine was dusty... pretty obvious). Empty and dry it out. A clean piece of typing/printer paper will show any drop that makes it into the defrost pan.
There are typically only three (3) elements to a DEFROST
power control circuit:
- Defrost Printed Circuit Board ( PCB you replaced??)
- Heater element to WARM the EVAPORATOR
- DEFROST thermostat... inhibit excess heat
(closed circuit at freezing - Opens at room temperature)
Per your DESCRIPTION...
your refrigerator is taking moisture from the WARM ROOM AIR and blocking your evaporator...
a PROPERLY functioning defrost circuit would remove that frost
at least DAILY... and the EVAPORATOR fan would properly chill the refrigerated side blowing cold air from the FREEZER.
Yes ... all INTERIOR panels must be in place for the refrigerator to function properly.
Hope this helps
Your parts... (see video instructions)
Posted on Apr 20, 2017
Check and test evap fan if not up to rmps will allow icing
Posted on Apr 20, 2017
Hi, they have changed lots of parts, were they defected, did they tested parts for faults or they just change parts, because it's available, there's always a reason why a certain part, go bad. so far you change most of parts in ref. check refrigerant (gas, freon) pressure, check compressor, for faulty suction and high side valve, it's possible your compressor loosing efficiency. or say if compressor normally pump 50 psi. now it's pumping 40 psi. is the refrigeration cycle balance ? is there restriction in your ref. system? is compressor running long enough? plug on ref. let it run for 1hr, listen to compressor for any clicking sound, fans and everything else could be working, be compressor not, compressor could be short cycling (not working long enough) also check voltage in receptacle(outlet) with digital multi-tester, get accurate voltage reading, let me know, could also be a faulty circuit breaker in house (building) not your ref. let me know, system could have very slow refrigerant leak, you could have a very small (slow) gas leak, that's why your refrigerator get hot first, then your freezer, there's a condensate line (loop) that passes through, ref body, close to doors to prevent door gasket from freezing, after few years sometimes develope leaks, cause by rusting. it's very possible there could be small leak in your system. let me know what happened.good luck.
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
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