Question about GE Energy Star WCVH6260F Front Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: washer make a clicking noise
Zoobs, you could have something stuck under the agitator. The agitator will pull straight off. Grip it on each side and pull up hard, but don't hit yourself in the face. If that don't work, try slipping a belt under it and pull. Check for something caught under it. Another possibility could be the nylon suspension rod socket supports in the back. They will make a noise during agitation if they are dry. Put a little 3 in 1 oil to quite them down. Take the front panel off and check the pulley and belt, see if anything is out of whack. I also often find the motor support hitting the bottom panel during agitation making noise. Take the front panel off and observe during agitation. See if the support is striking the bottom. If so, just bend the bottom panel down. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Dec 01, 2006
SOURCE: Washing Machine Will not Spin
Every one needs to know that the expensive parts are under warranty for ten years the outer drum front and rear, the pulley, the inner drum. GE sent me all four parts retail value 1200.00 on their web site, got them today. Before I under take this project I am wondering if any one know if the drum seal the giant O ring ( the one between the two halves) should be replaced or can the old one be used?
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
I had the same problem. The machine will do the washing cycle. At the start of the spin cycle it would start turning with a lot of clicking sounds and then would stop spinning. The water pump would continue working without problem. The motor tries to start again in about three minutes, however, repeats the same behavior. I have a reasonable mechanical and electrical knowledge. I was sure that the overload protection switch of the motor was tripping. I opened up my machine---a GE super capacity top loading machine. Took off the belt and turned the transmission pulley. It turned easily in both directions (washing and spinning). Hence, the transmission was good. Next, I checked any water accumulation in the spin tub. If the water is not drained properly before the spin cycle, it would overload the motor. There was no water clogged in the spin tub. Finally, I dismantled the electric motor. There was a clutch assembly underneath the motor pulley. I dismantled it and found the clutch very dirty with some grease that had turned sticky. I cleaned the assembly thoroughly with alcohol and assembled back the machine. The machine is running perfect after that. Conclusion: The clutch assembly was mis-functioning. Reason: When the spin cycle starts, the spin tub is very heavy and cannot achieve the full speed quickly. On the other hand, electric motors must get to their running speed fairly quickly or else overheating of motor would happen. A proper functioning clutch allows the motor to run at their optimal speed while transferring enough torque to the spin tub to slowly speed up the tub to its fullest. In my case, the clutch was sticky, thus overloading the motor which would trip as it overheats.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
SOURCE: GE WSSH300 front load washing
Welcome to FixYa
It sounds like (based on your initial description) the unit is detecting an incomplete drain or an unlocked door, hence the control will not initiate a hi-speed spin. Since you've checked the drain already you can likely rule the incomplete drain a non-factor.
I know most folks will rule out the lock initially because the unit does indeed "lock", however, the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.
If it does indeed drain fine, then here's the next place I'd direct you to investigate.
**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**
It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.
What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, i.e.
If loose push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )
If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch, so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...
**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**
You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace. It should resemble the image here...
As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.
1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**
2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.
3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.
4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.
Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Posted on Mar 02, 2011
Testimonial: "thanks we tried everything else and am now ordering a door lock"
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