Question about Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator

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What would cause a Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator not to cool down, both the frig or freezer

I moved the refrigerator and had to changed the condenser fan (had stopped working) in between the doors was very hot. Fan works now. I restarted the frig and selected the coldest setting. Hit the power freeze, waited 24 hrs and still will not cool down. Can hear the compressor running.

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  • Samsung Master
  • 5,420 Answers

Well for one hitting the coldest setting is not good it tends to over work ur compressor med setting is better read below
FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"

Posted on Jun 24, 2015

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Jun 24, 2015

    FRIDGE COILS or door walls SEEM VERY HOT:

    The condenser coils do get hot. They can even be to hot to comfortably touch and this is normal.

    The refrigerator should not run constantly but shut off with each defrost cycle.

    Running constantly and never cycling off can indicate a cooling problem.

    One thing to try is to wait till it has been running a few minutes then open the door and turn your cycling thermostat towards the off position. It should cycle off before getting to the off position on the dial.

    If it does not cycle off then it's not getting cold enough to satisfy the thermostat. This is likely the reason the refrigerator runs all the time.

    A thermometer in a glass of water can be used to check the temperatures in the refrigerator section.

    You can check that all fans are running.

    the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is the compressor is over heating, probably the condenser fan motor to your compressor is bad.
    It should be a little warm but not hot. they don't use heaters anymore ( some older models still use heaters) around the doors, instead they use the condenser coils to remove condensation and moister, you might want to check your condenser coils on the bottom or back of fridge to see if they need cleaning
    If the condenser coils/condenser fan are all plugged up they need cleaning and/or the condenser may fail or has failed..

    The ones that use an electric heater will have an "energy saver" switch that will turn it off.
    : God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung RS2555SL humming noise

the freezer has gone on to test mode for some reason press and hold down at the same time the power cool and power freeze buttons for 8 seconds this will take it off its test cycle

good luck

phil

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

aborcass

Ron Coons

  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator housing is getting very hot

this is for sure the reeason for the heat between the doors, in mean time ( whike waitin got replace the fan behind the compressor, you can install a small cheap house fan behind unit to keep it cool , ohterwise it will eventually damage the compressor

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

peyton32034

peyton thompson

  • 410 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator Door heater

this isnt an electric heater in between the doors its a hot gas loop. there is a motor behind the refrig that cools the comp and condenser coils this fan is either not working or something has jammed it up. just pull the refig away from the wall remove the compartmnet cover and check that fan out good luck peyton

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

Anonymous

  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator stopped working

ok whats the light that you see? i need to know what the bars are and or your email and i can email you the list for the codes.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

SOURCE: noise (more detail)

I think I answered this in an earlier post.

The noise is the fan banging against the motor housing. It's not a defective motor, it's a poorly designed motor.

The solution is to shim the motor mount so it is slightly out of level which will keep the fan from bouncing off the motor housing.

The reason Samsung won't service is they don't understand the problem. I've seen this a half-dozen times.

Trust me -- SHIM THE MOTOR MOUNT!

Posted on May 27, 2009

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While I'm looking your model number up could you confirm your model number like is yours the model RS2630SH. I will need to see what could be the cause and the solution will come as we communicate by you answer back. I love to tackle the difficult ones and your model fall in that category. I will be back soon to see if you can conferm. Otherwise I will spend hours looking for the solution. I know thaat it has something you do with the mother board or compressor start components. Thanks for being patient as I wait on a reply, Sea Breeze
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That is a good thing. you want that to happen what it does is it avoids condensation to form around the doors

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