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Ice made but will not dump.

Have reset a number of times, defrosted the unit with hairdryer, Freezer temp at -25, ice in tray but will not dump. HELP! Thanks

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Hello, There is a heater in the bottom of the tray where the ice cubes are formed. The heater melts the bottom of the ice cubes just enough to release the ice cubes from the mold. I suspect your mold heater is not working.

Posted on Oct 13, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Why do freezer coils ice up on my Stainless Steel Whirlpool refrigerator (model GB2SHDXTS)?


On your model your cntrl board has a relay that can stick causing the compressor to always run even when the unit is turned off or in defrost. turn the fridge off, move the temp of the freezer to it's warmest setting and it should display a line in the freezer and fridge temp display. listen to hear if the compressor is running in back of the unit. if it is you need part number: 12868513

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I have a MN - TFX24PRXB - BB GE Side by side refrigerator. The Ice maker does not make ice anymore. I have tested the water valve and it is working. If I turn the gears it will start the process to...


Check for freezer temp - if it is not 10 degrees or below the ice maker thermostat will not turn the ice maker cycle on by removing the frozen ice in tray and then refilling it for next dump cycle. And if freezer temp is high you may have leaking door gasket, dirty condenser coils, improperly operating self defroster which raises temps, low refrigerant.

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I recently replaced the evaporator fan motor. Now I have two problems: 1) Ice maker does not dump ice automatically. The water line is clear and fills up the tray. The ice freezes but will not dump the...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

You made this statement:

I have to manually make the ice dump. 2) I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking and the inside of the freezer also has a slight build up of frost on the walls.

From my 40 years of experience that statement is telling me that the freezers' evaporator coils are blocked with ice. (i.e frost on the walls) When the coils become blocked or built up with ice everything APPEARS to be working fine but the actual freezer temp is above 17 deg F. An ice maker will not initiate an ice-harvest cycle until the temps are between 14 - 16 Deg F. I.e it is not cold enough to automatically make ice because the ice maker thermostat is not closing at 14 - 16 deg F to start the ice harvest.

So I will pose these questions for you and answer them:
Q? What causes the ice on the walls
A: The unit is not defrosting properly.

Q? What causes a refrigerator to not defrost properly?
A: There are several; reasons that a refrigerator will not automatically defrost
1. The defrost control has failed (Most common failure)
2. The defrost heating element has failed
3. The defrost thermostat has failed
4. A wiring problem in the defrost circuit

Now.... you also made this statement:
I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking
You may have a leaking ice tray but it is quite rare. What usually causes an ice build up directly under and ice maker is the inlet water valve leaking / bypassing water when it is supposed to be shut off. An inlet water valve will bypass water when the internal diaphragm fails or debris is blocking the needle seat of the diaphragm. Either way the only remedy is to replace the inlet water valve because the valves are NOT repairable.
Reach inside your freezer and squeeze the rubber tube that fills the ice maker with water. If there is a problem with the inlet water valve the rubber tube starts freezing up with ice. Eventually when the rubber tube is totally frozen the plastic tube on the back of the refrigerator that connects to the rubber tube either leaks or separates from the rubber tube and ports water onto the floor.

If you really want to prove that there is a problem with the inlet water valve turn the ice maker OFF. Remove the plastic tube from the rubber ice maker fill tube (Just pulls out) and place it in a bucket overnight. IF you note water in the bucket the next day then the inlet water valve has for sure failed. Sometimes they LEAK intermittently when the failure first begins so the bucket test may not reveal a leaking inlet water valve. The key here is you said you have water UNDER the ice maker and you suspect a tray leak.

Here is what I recommend you do after the overnight plastic tube in a bucket leakage / bypassing test:
1. Reinstall the plastic tube on to the rubber fill tube.
2. Turn the ice maker ON
3. UNPLUG the refrigerator and so a manual defrost by removing the freezer contents then directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess)
4. Return the unit to normal service
5. Check for ice production 6 - 8 hours after you performed the manual defrost.
If you have automatic ice production you most likely have and automatic defrosting problem... BUT.... there can be a problem with the freezer door / light switch. The door light switch is a 3 contact switch. One contact is a common power wire and the other 2 contacts turn on the light and provide power to the ice maker (and some times the evaporator fan also depending on unit design)
Test the door light switch amd make sure the light will go off when the door is closed. (depress the plunger) If the light stays on the door switch is bad.

Hopefully you have enough information to understand what is happening with your refrigerator and what the causes of the symptoms you have are.

I think in the end you will have to repair the automatic defrost problem and replace the inlet water valve. Do not forget about testing the door light switch.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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1 Answer

Ice maker has ice motor doen't dump the ice


Your ice-maker may need to be "hard-reset". To do this, perform a manual-defrost by emptying out the freezer (and fridge) and shutting all power off to your unit for several hours (at least half a day unless you can be sure the temp in the freezer has fully reached ambient. Next, with freezer empty, restore power, make sure the "ice" setting is set to off, then set the forced power-freeze mode (you can refill the fridge, but leave the freezer empty for now. When the power-freeze completes (at least 2.5 hours) you can refill the freezer, set the "ice" mode to block/crushed (IE something other than off) and then hit the "black reset button" to restart the ice-maker. IF it still will not dump the cubes then the ice sensor/control board may have failed.

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You MUST get all the ice out of the drain hole. Use a turkey baster and hot water to clear.

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Ice forms are 32 degrees but ice maker don't dump till 25 degrees. Get that guy back out there. Obviously you have a bad defrost heater.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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