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Need advice for hard-wire from 3 wire wall to 4 wire oven

Kitchenaid KOCE500E has 4 wires of white, black, green and red. The wall has black, white and bare copper. It is a 50V 125/250A setup, originally 3 prong Which wires from oven connect to which wires in wall?

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  • KitchenAid Master
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Your oven is wired for mobile home use . Have it changed over to a 3 wire by a professional electrician

Posted on Oct 19, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: COOK TOP WIRING

 You have Red and Black HOT wires and a Green Neutral - That is 220 volts. From the wall - Black is Normally HOT and White is Neutral. That is 110 volts. If that is a typical household outlet, is will only supply a demand at about 15 amps while running at 110 volts. Your Cooktop will most likely demand somewhere around 50 amps at 220 volts. - Short Answer - You will need to have a 220 volt supply line ran to the cooktop from the breaker. Easy to do but dangerous if you are unfamiliar with high voltage. 

Posted on Apr 30, 2008

docjohn174

john gagnon

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SOURCE: Maytag dryer MDE4000AYW change 3 prong to a 4 prong

HI thanks for your question. the red to red black to black white to white green goes to the fram of the dryer. thanks hope i was helpful. please rate my answer.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

Jrussell789

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SOURCE: 3 wire cook top to a 4 wire outlet

Older 3 wire connectors where Wht=Neutral Ground Return, Red=One Phase Hot, Blk=Second Phase Hot, of 220VAC stove connections.

Newer Electrical code standard has a forth wire that is bare copper for a separate safety ground return.
I suggest you but a 4 wire pig tail cable for your stove top, available at Depot or Lowes, and connect 3 wires of this 4 wire cable just like the 3 wires are now connected. The 4th bare copper safety is attached to any metal part of the stove. Find a screw you can loosen to wrap it around and tighten.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

al_kupchella

Al Kupchella

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SOURCE: The 3-way dimmer switch has 4 wires; 1-red,

Incoming white - outgoing white This is the neutral, which just passes through without connecting to the switch
incoming black - switch black the hot wire provides power to the switch
switch red - outgoing red a traveler, will have power when toggle is one position
switch yellow - outgoing black
the other traveler, will have power when toggle is in the other position
incoming bare - switch green - outgoing bare the switch is grounded and it passes through

If this was helpful, please vote.

Posted on Mar 23, 2010

gfxmaxx

mathew ridley

  • 155 Answers

SOURCE: I bought a Utilitech Self

The reason there is 2 black in the wall is because a standard line breaking switch was used. Meaning the hot side of the light was the black wire once broken light goes off. You would hook the black from switch to black in wall and white from switch to other black in wall green is ground and red put wire nut on. Red is for a 2 switch system. Where one of two switches in same room controls same light. Its not needed. Take caution when doing this trun light on goto breaker box and flip breakers till you find the right one that powers that light. once lights off then do your thing replacing.

Posted on May 06, 2011

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1 Answer

How to hardwire a 3 wire wall to a 4 wire oven


Simply put, it won't work. New oven=white is neutral, black and red are power but not on the same "leg", and green is ground. If you use a meter, black and red should give you 208-230 or so volts. Wires from wall=White is neutral, blank is voltage (probably 120 or so volts) and bare copper is ground. The dual voltage plug can be used for either 125 or 250 volts, not both as required by the new oven. Need an new circuit pulled and wire/breaker matched to new oven power requirements.

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Am replacing an old wall timer with a GE Smart Digital Timer. The old timer had two black wires connected to two black wires from the wall. The new timer however has red, black, white and green wires. I...


I've tested these timers.
Here's what to do:
1) Connect green to bare copper
2) Switch has 2 wires. For now, connect these two wires to timer-black and timer-red. Choose either one.
3) In back of wall box are white neutral wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Timer-white wire connects to these white neutral wires. This action gives power to time clock.
4) If wall box does not have white neutrals described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground wire. Bare ground connects to neutral busbar in breaker box.
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L1 and L2 connect to the black and red. White connects to White. Green connects to the electrical box if it is made of steel and is grounded. Otherwise the green connects to the whites

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I have a jenn-air wall oven it has a red wire a black wire a white wire and a copper wire but coming out of my wall is only a red/black and copper what dose the white wire go to please help thank you


IF you nhave a 3 wire feed fronm the house for your range, you connect the red and black for the power and then use the copper wire from the wall to connect to the white and copper wires from the range. All new construction must have a 4 wire feed to a range and dryer.

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the RJ45 wallplate is not meant for ethernet. It's an 8P8C connector for a phone. Will it work as a network jack? Maybe. I wouldn't use it, but if you really want to try, wire it thusly:

1 Blue --- Orange/White
2 Orange --- Orange
3 Black --- Green/White
4 Red --- Blue
5 Green --- Blue/White
6 Yellow --- Green
7 Brown --- Brown/White
8 White --- Brown

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We need to attach a new pigail to the KitchenAid 750 LQI


Hi lvolkmar,
Perhaps I can assist you with your wiring dilemma. To begin with, you wil need to gain access to the back of the dryer so pull that out and locate the feedthru where the original cord fed into it. Next, loosen the cable clamp ( make sure the cord has been unplugged from the wall receptacle )..
Once you loosen the cable clamp, open the access cover to where the wires get terminated onto the terminal block of the dryer. You should see at least 3 locations... and maybe 4. Your dryer should have a red, black,white and or green terminal so match the red wire to the red terminal, black to black, white to white and the green is the ground wire... if you do not have a ground terminal on the terminal block then you should see a ground stud near the point of entry or near the terminal block itself. It's ok to use one of the sheet metal screws on the frame if you can't identify a ground terminal.
For the record, the red and black wires are incoming ac power, the white is your neutral which is normally wired between the red and black and the green is a frame ground for your safety. Hope this helps you but if not, feel free to restate your question or concern.,..
Regards,
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You will have 3 or possibly 4 wires coming out of the oven Red and Black go to the hot leads in the junction box.Usually red & black but could be 2 black. White goes to white Bare/green go to the white if no Bare/Green available. This is for a wall oven. If the stove is free standing and you want to attach a cord. Just buy the cord that matches the outlet in your house. Make sure it is a range cord and not a dryer cord. They are very similar. If a 3 conductor cord (most common) outer two terminals are the hot ones. There is a wire or metal strap between the frame of the range and the center (neutral )terminal . On a 3 conductor cord leave this connected. On a 4 conductor cord remove this wire and connect it to the green/bare wire in the cord. There may be a vacant terminal on the block for this purpose. If not use a wire nut.

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Cooktop WIring


To complying with changed Codes (effective in 2002 ) regarding stoves, ovens and dryers. You will need a 120/240 volt 4 wire 40 amp and 50 amp circuit. This
Decades ago it was permitted to use a 3 wire system (having two 120 volt hots (Black and Red) and 1 combination ground/neutral wire) (green and white) to serve stoves, cooktops, ovens and dryers.
The Code change now requires all stoves and dryers in NEW construction to have the 4 wire set-up (now having two 120 volt hots, 1 white neutral and one green or bare wire ground).
Existing wiring is grand-fathered under the Code change.....I advise you to change the feed wiring over to the the 4 wire set-up...
because - as with ALL Code changes in the past...it will eventually become mandatory for all stoves, ovens and dryers as the grand-father clause drops off. By complying now...
BUT the wiring will need to change to 8/3 with ground. (having 4 wires inside one outer jacket).This is the primary reason for the Code change....to provide a greater margin of safety to the user.
I can NOT recommend the 3 wire hook-up...the 4 wire provides a seperate ground and neutral -
which makes the chance of a user shock when touching the metal frame (from an internal fault in the oven) much less likely then the old 3 wire set-up....
which did NOT have the seperate ground and neutral.
Krazytech

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