Question about Siemens Dryers

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My Siemens UltraSense Electric Dryer won't start after vacuuming out the lint inside.

The dryer was working but squeaking and getting too hot. So I opened up the back and found a stiff wheel and a lot of lint inside. I fixed the wheel, vacuumed out all the lint I could find, reassembled and now it won't start. It clicks once on air fluff and twice on other settings. I checked the Thermal fuse and it appears to be good. The door is shutting too. Any ideas.

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  • Siemens Master
  • 756 Answers

Could be you accidently disconnected something with the vacuum head/end?

DISCONNECT AC then reopen to check for LOOSE WIRES and/or connectors not joined ~ not fully connected/joined or perhaps a wire is loose at it's mating connecting pin?

Gee, iIf anything a CLEANER dryer should run FASTER ~ just kidding.

A

Posted on Dec 24, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Hotpoint NVL333EY Electric dryer blows thermal fuse

I had the same thing happen, I replaced the thermal cutoff and made sure no lint build up. It lasted a week then blew again. I then replaced it again and got to thinking why it would blow. I then took apart the exaust inside the dryer running fron the drum to the motor and right before the motor was a build up of lint ane particals that was almost like compressed sawdust which was blocking half of the line. I cleaned this out and it seemed to work much better.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

jsrock516

Jeff Rockwell

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer (electric )

You will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel to access. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the right-hand side of the dryer (facing from the back). Simply disconnect, the wires leads and remove the mounting screws to remove.

Now...you mentioned removing the thermal fuse. Did you check the thermal cut-out or the hi-limit thermostat? These components are small silver disc-shaped devices mounted on the heater box assembly. As you are facing the back of the dryer, the hi-limit thermostat is located near the terminal connections of the heating element. The thermal cut-out is located farthest away from the heating element closer to the top of the heater box. Usually when you have a no heat problem, it the thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, or heating element that goes bad. If the thermal fuse is bad, you generally have a dryer that not only won't heat, but won't even turn on. I hope I'm not confusing you. In a nut shell, there's a difference between the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. If you had large accumulations of lint in your dryer, I would bet you have a blown thermal cut-out.

If you wish to check the parts listing yourself to make sure you have the correct parts, go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading. The thermal cut-out kit is what you need to order for a no heat problem. It's listed as item #1 (part #279816). This also includes the hi-limit thermostat. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace BOTH of these components at the same time. The heating element is listed as item #14 (part #279838).

Look under the "view diagram" heading and you can see where all these components are located, using the exploded view of the dryer assembly. The thermal fuse you mention is listed as item #59 in the drawing and is located on the air baffle housing.

This is still an easy fix. I just want to make sure you're identifying the correct parts. I don't think you want to purchase parts you don't need.

I hope this helps you. If I've managed to confuse you, please post back with your questions and I can guide you in the right direction.

Posted on Apr 16, 2008

James Chandler

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer turns, heats up but won't dry

check the outside of your house to see how strong the blowing is if it's weak then it's in the vent tube

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: LG dlg5988W Gas Dryer - flashing "clean filter" light

i got the same problem and no repair man could help . i think i just got mine fixed 6-15-09 .what you do is go behind the dryer , remove the air duct and then remove the pipe that is inside the machine by removing one screw . this will give you access inside the machine .first clean as much as you can of the lint inside by vacuuming it . if you look to the left you will see 2 wires with a black button in the middle this is the ignitor ,clean it good because i think the dirt is not allowing it to light up . i did that and mine is working but the cooling light is still on .

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

Controlfrk

Controlfrk

  • 304 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer 110 is making a loud squeaking noise.

Only a few things will make that noise. The squeaking is caused by a moving part having trouble turning while rubbing against a fixed part.

  1. The idler pulley is worn
  2. The drum support rollers are hard turning on their shafts
  3. The felt seals at the front or back of the drum is worn allowing metal to metal contact while turning
  4. An article has fallen into the housing around the blower wheel and the wheel is rubbing on it.
Listen for the frequency of the sound. The drum rollers and drum felts will squeak at the frequency of the tub turning. The idler pulley turns much faster as does the blower wheel. Knowing this will help pin down the cause.

The following link has valuable information on taking apart your style of dryer:

Sears Dryer Disassembly

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

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