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Correct tensions for rolled hem on fine fabric . I have a janome 774D

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My Janome my excel 23x

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tension to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: Janome 1600P-DB Tension Works For So Long...

It sounds as though the thread is jumping out of the tension assembly. The next time this happens, do not raise the presser foot before you do the following.Cut the thread above the needle and pull on it.If it is working properly there will be tension on it.If it is not working properly, the thread will pull through very easily.If the thread is coming out of the tension , either it isn't threaded correctly or you may need to wrap the thread around the bobbin winder guide to keep it from coming out.If you wrap it around the bobbin winder guide reduce the tension to around 2 , 3 or even less.
Hope this helps.
sewman7

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rolled hem on chiffon

Turn under the edge just about 1/4" and do a rolled edge then you can go back and trim off any of the folded under fabric that may show. Also, this keeps the hem from pulling away so easily. You may also try putting some water soluble stabilizer under the fabric before you serge.

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

Sewtech1

Absolute Sewing

  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: can I do a rolled hem on a janome mylock 134?

You need to fit a rolled hem plate

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

Tally Girl

Tally Girl

  • 1134 Answers

SOURCE: I cannot get the tension right? Also, trying

Rolled hem would be one needle and two loopers, is this what you meant?

Make sure you move the blade to right so that you are cutting wider than the stitch being formed, you want the fabric to roll to the underside inside the stitch.

I would set top looper tension to 3 and bottom looper tension to 6 first off (needle at five, normal tension) first off and test serge with the stitch length at normal 2 or so, so you can see if the fabric is rolling under for you. There is proabably a stitch finger in the throat that you need to change too, sometimes its on the foot, (change with a screwdriver) and sometimes just a finger down on the needle plate.

Then adjust the two looper tensions making lower thread nestle up against the needle on the bottom of the stitch, and the top looper thread wrapping right over to bottom as well. Once this is happening, then turn stitch length down to close up the stitches.

It does depend on the weight of fabric too, and if you want to seam curves.

I find its best done with wooly overlock thread on top looper to "fill" in the overlocking appearance and fully cover the fabric.

I hope this is of help, if the tensions just wont behave then one of them might be faulty and machine need a service, I get mine done at least every 2 years to keep timing and tensions right.

Posted on May 26, 2011

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Best tension settings for a rolled hem on stretchy fabric


you don't mention if the machine is a sewing machine or serger, or the name or model number?

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How to do a rolled hem on very fine fabric


There should be a special foot for this procedure. I run a straight stitch near the edge first.

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How do I adjust tension on a Janome Harmony 9102D


Sounds like you want to do a rolled hem for a handkerchief edge, I do the following to create a rolled hem on my over locker. Take out left needle and cut and remove that thread. Open front cover and slide back lever for the stitch finger in the needle plate, this finger stops the fabric rolling under thread tension normally so you need to pull it back out of engagement. Your Janome may have a similar means to select the rolled hem or you may need to remove the stitch finger with a screwdriver, it varies between models.

Thread upper looper with wooly nylon and right needle and lower looper in matching colour thread. (You can go wooly on the bottom looper but it hardly shows so I never bother.) Disengage upper blade and move the fixed lower blade to the right to trim less, then lower upper blade back into position. Now tension, needle leave alone (5)' upper looper very loose (2-3) and lower looper tighten up to 6-7 and test stitch. You want the upper looper thread to go right underneath and the lower looper thread to disappear against the needle stitch. And the fabric to roll inside the stitching. Finesse tensions on the loopers until this is right, you may need to change blade position too, depends on weight of the fabric and how it rolls. Once this is right turn stitch length down to close up stitching, 0.8 or even 0.5 if you want full coverage. Thats it. You can use differential feed if you want a fluted rolled edge, nice on knits.

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How do I do a rolled hem on a Janome Four DLR serger?


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Janome mylock 204d needle keeps breaking when sewing a rolled hem on sequined fabric


The needle thread breaks
1. the needle thread is not threaded properly
2. The needle thread tension is to tight
3. The needle is bent or blunt
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted
5. The needle thread & the bobbin thread are not set under the presser foot when starting to sew
6. the threads were not drawn to the rear after sewing
7. The thread is either to heavy or to fine for the needle

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1 Answer

How do I create a rolled hem with this machine. I see the stitch width knob, but do I need to remove one of the threads for this?


Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.

If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.

I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

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I am not getting an even rolled hem on a heavier fabric. I am only using 3 cones of Maxi Lock.


You can not do a rolled hem on heavier material. It is only for thin cloth. You have to do a 3 thread narrow edge on heavier cloth.

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Cut 1/8" of the corner of the fabric at a 45 degree angle.
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Feed the edge into the funnel of the foot and carefully feed the fabric into the foot as it sews.
Practice a few times with some long scraps to get the hang of how much to fold in and you will rapidly improve.

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Rolled hem or rolled edge


You need to disengage the cutting blade by openingfirstly opening the front and left hand side covers. pull on the larger of the two silver knobs and slide the red lever towards you. I'm not sure what the tension settings are, but I'm certain you need to reduce them a fair bit to aid in the rolling effect. I only use 3 threads when doing a rolled hem.
My description isn't too detailed but I hope it helps!

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