Question about Danby Refrigerators

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Hello, I have a Danby refrigerator model DFF092C1BSLDB and the freezer coils freeze up after 2 weeks and force me to turn the power off and thaw out the freezer to get it working again.

This is only 3 years old and out of warranty. Here is what I know so far: -The fan sitting on top of the coils and blowing up into the refrigerator works just fine. And when it stops working there is no ice buildup in the air-road panel up into the fridge. Only ice on the coils. -This model does not have a timer like most standard models. It has a thermal cutoff C0472.4.4, defrost protector C1414.4.4, and a defrost heater C0817.4.3. From what I know these are the 3 most likely culprits. I did test for continuity and everything seems fine from what I can tell but I am not 100% sure in this case. Some information I have found leads me to believe I need to test in a cup of water to test properly. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I know I can get the thermal cutoff and the heater but the defrost protector defrost bimetal has been challenging to find. Thanks again!

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Its probably the heater element. The Thermal cutout should be closed circuit. The bimetal can be open or closed depending on temperature. I am not familiar with these fridges. You will need to check the wiring diagram. Some open when they get warm, to allow a neutral path some close to complete the electrical circuit. Check for continuity of the bimetal when its been in the freezer overnight, then remove it and check if it goes open when warm (Or vice versa) If yours is an electronic defrost, it could be the board.

Posted on Apr 10, 2019

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE GSL22JFPH BS refrigerator, coils icing up

I'm in the process of fixing the same problem on a GSS22JEPDWW right now. There are several parts in the defrost circuit that I can tell:
1) Defrost Heater
2) DefrostThermostat
3) Temp Sensor (Thermistor)
4) Main Control Board
I've replaced the Defrost Heater (remove back panel of freezer section - it's a stainless steel bracket that has a glass bulb in it) and it still doesn't work. The main control card provides power to the heater 4 times every 24 hrs for 25 minutes or so to defrost the evaporator coils. If all items are working, you'll see water in the drip catch at the bottom inside of the freezer compartment. Better yet, pull the refer away from the wall for 24 hrs and check if water is gathering below the plastic drain on the right rear of the refer in the pan. The water drips into a pan and the fan for the condensor coil evaporates it. Go to the www.ge.com website and look in the service section to find the parts diagram for your refer. You can then get a part number to buy the parts you need from a local parts store or the Internet.
I just bought the thermostat a few minutes ago and will try that next. Heater was $37, thermostat was $15. Sensor is about $20 and the control card is $140 (you can find on line for $95). I'm going down that path. If none of this works, it'll be in the dump in a week.
I've learned on-line GE refers are bad news. The control cards can fail repeartedly, althoough mine has worked for over 4 years. But, I won't ever buy another one since refers should last at least 15 years in my book. After $200, it doesn't pay to throw more good money after bad. I'll keep you posted on my results.
TM

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

Anonymous

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Coils freeze up,refridgerator and freezer stops working

The defrost cycle is not working properly, there are three things involved in system. #1 Defrost timer in refrigerator #2 Thermostat on coils to tell if unit is frozen #3 heater element located under coils thaws coils when frozen. the defrost timer if it is manual < located at the front of light assembly panel in top of refrigerator there will be a hole with a plastic piece that resembles a screw strait screw head> it turns and every 8hrs aprox. it stops operations and starts defrost cycle by allowing voltage to the thermostat and if thermostat is frozen it allows power to element for thawing coils. If defrost timer is manual look for direction it is facing and mark edge to see if timer is turning< very slow turning and is easiest way> if you can get an ohm meter ohm the element on high setting< if it has continuity element is operable> check wiring just to be sure not problem. If you find the timer does turn and doesn't stay in one position over 40 minutes then the thermostat is bad.If element fails tesing then the element is bad and if timer stays in one position then it is bad. If unit is equiped with electronic defrost timer and element is good in would replace timer and thermostat to guaranty that resolved problem

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung fridge/freezer model SRS73DTA doesnt freeze.

Hi I have the same problem,
did you get an answer to your question..?

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

danny Hendrickson

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer & fridge works great for two weeks

its probably the defrost heating element located just below the evaporator coil,remove the evaporator cover and check the terminals on the element,then disconnect one wire off the element and check it for continuity

Posted on May 10, 2010

kel1guy2002

Kelly

  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I have a Fisher and Paykel E402B

Your automatic defrosting circuit is not working. There are several components that can stop the defrosting process:
1. The defrost control
2. The defrost element
3. The defrost thermostat

Any one of the 3 can open cause the automatic defrosting process NOT to work.

If the defrost control fails, it just stops defrosting and ice builds up on the evaporator coils.
If the defrost element fails it will go into the defrost cycle and not cool again until the internal temps reach 60 Deg F.
If the defrost thermostat fails in the open position the heater will not heat up and the freezer will ice up.

There are 6 models of the R402B so I was not able to narrow down a source your exact parts data.
However, if the defrost control has failed the good news is the most expensive one is $18.95 AUD

Hopefully this gives you something to go on. I think it will either be the defrost control or the thermostat. If you can locate the defrost control turn it until it clicks ONCE and see if the unit shuts off and completes a defrost cycle. If it heats up but does not complete the defrost cycle again your looking at a problem with the defrost thermostat. If it does not heat at all then the problem is the heating element.

The defrost control will have 2 sloped tabs on it so that you can only turn the control one direction. The defrost control dial with the tabs will be no larger than 1/2 inch in diameter.

UK Parts: http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/search.pl?query=Fisher+%26Paykel+E402B
AU parts: https://www.statewideapp.com.au/shop

You most likely will have to make a "contact" enquiry at either site above. For the defrost tmer, heating element or the defrost thermostat.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on Jun 21, 2011

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The defrost cycle is not working properly, there are three things involved in system. #1 Defrost timer in refrigerator #2 Thermostat on coils to tell if unit is frozen #3 heater element located under coils thaws coils when frozen. the defrost timer if it is manual < located at the front of light assembly panel in top of refrigerator there will be a hole with a plastic piece that resembles a screw strait screw head> it turns and every 8hrs aprox. it stops operations and starts defrost cycle by allowing voltage to the thermostat and if thermostat is frozen it allows power to element for thawing coils. If defrost timer is manual look for direction it is facing and mark edge to see if timer is turning< very slow turning and is easiest way> if you can get an ohm meter ohm the element on high setting< if it has continuity element is operable> check wiring just to be sure not problem. If you find the timer does turn and doesn't stay in one position over 40 minutes then the thermostat is bad.If element fails tesing then the element is bad and if timer stays in one position then it is bad. If unit is equiped with electronic defrost timer and element is good in would replace timer and thermostat to guaranty that resolved problem

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