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This is for a GE JS958bk1bb..Left front element with bridge option. I bought a replacement part WB24T10063 GE Range Stove Burner Infinite Switch Control AP3189829 PS236785 WB24T10063 to repair it.

Installed part...numerous times...first time...nothing 2nd and subsequent times Power light on but no heat on element I checked and rechecked wiring with photo Reinstalled old part...back to working as it did before 'repair some of the heat settings work. ...ie....high/low at start then as element heats, I get more range but not complete. ..if it were old school, I would say that some of the contacts weren't working. Any suggestions, I have a request into part supplier 1 What is your return policy? 2 Do you offer tech assistance or know who might online or by phone there is something about a jumper wire included and wondered if that has something to do with it.

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6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aborcass

Ron Coons

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SOURCE: heating element in GE Range Oven

get the model number and order the exact repacement bake element

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE JCB909 Range - Blank display

The problem was not with the stove, it was with the electrical box - it was wired incorrectly.

Even though power was getting through it was not the way it should be. Electrician made repairs and stove appears to be functioning correctly.

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my ge spectra stove bake element is not heating

I have a GE Spectra stove. The top element over heated and broke in half.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

seakish

  • 492 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Oven heating element and timer clock went

Try unplugging the oven and let sit for 10 min. This will reset the curcuit board and reboot the electronics. You may have to pull out the stove o get to the cord.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

spankyII

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: Front right burner on GE glass top range not working

If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Posted on Jul 24, 2010

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We have a Bosch ceramic hob model no 9000329649, cooking with rear 2 rings yesterday. They will not switch on, front 2 are OK. Grill and oven fine.


check them with a meter and check the infinite switch's also

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Jan 10, 2017 | Bosch Ovens

1 Answer

MODEL WFG231LVQ0 OVEN AND BROILER WONT LITE BURNERS WORK


are you sure about that being the reason. I would check the infinite switch's

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

Sep 06, 2013 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

GE Profile JT912 keep tripping circuit breaker


see this steps and fix it. God bless you

. Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.

You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.

2. Infinite switch
Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/rangeoven-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2aSmUeYiW
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 29, 2013 | GE Profile JT912 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

I have an Kenmore stove oven. It is a glass top stove that I bought in 2002. The front right element won't shut off.


This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. Here is a video that will walk you thru testing an infinite switch. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Feb 05, 2011 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

My GE profile electric range (model PS905SPSS) has a power boil burner with dual burner elements (one inner circle and one large outer circle). The outer circle one is glowing and heating but the inner...


Disconnect power to range. If you have an ohm meter, you can check the burner coils for continuity from the wires at the switch. If not, open oven door, remove screws holding top. Lift up top and remove screws holding the set of burners in question and visually inspect the inner coil for a break in the burner coil.

Nov 27, 2010 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore electric stove with glass/cermanic top. Element on light indictor light stays on all the time even though no burners have been turned on for 5 hours. None of the burners are hot when you run your...


Tony, this sounds like you may need to have a new burner switch installed, it is called an infinite switch. If it is for the dual burner, make sure you tell the appliance parts store this so they can order you a dual infinite switch.

Nov 08, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

My GE electric burner is not working.


The know that controls the burner is bad. Take off the front cover and replace the control knob. Be sure you unplug the stove. Let me know how it goes. ken

ps write down the wiring of the control there are 5 wires going to switch there will be little letters on the switch like l1 l2 P com on writing like that.

Dec 22, 2008 | GE JRS04 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

My right front burner will not turn off on my electric stove top?


Hello, the switch controls the element ,if the element is staying on replace the switch.Please note any electrical repairs should be performed by an authorized service technician. good luck

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