Question about AT&T Office Equipment & Supplies

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Looked at operator/set manual gave this number mite help

1 800 722-9125

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Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Ohm's law tells us that: volts = amps x resistance and watts =volts x amps. Watts (300) = volts (240) x Amps (?); or 300 / 240 = 1.25 Amps That means the inverter can supply up to 1.25 Amps to a 240 volt load.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

Mar 09, 2011 | Electronics - Others

This makes no sense... 32 Watts and 12.8 volts... something to do with this speaker that is rated at 500 Watts???

If you are trying to calculate something for a car amp you don't understand how they work... that is the only thing I can think given the 12.8 volt thing you stated. Most high power car amps BOOST the incoming battery voltage up with a switching power supply. For instance, they might boost to 48 volts and that applied to a 4 ohm speaker would be 12 amps PEAK maximums. BUT the RMS power is one half that or about 288 Watts in round figures before considering losses.

Many car amps are designed to run with 2 ohm speakers... JUST SO THEY CAN CLAIM massive power values in their ads so you will buy them!

If you are trying to calculate something for a car amp you don't understand how they work... that is the only thing I can think given the 12.8 volt thing you stated. Most high power car amps BOOST the incoming battery voltage up with a switching power supply. For instance, they might boost to 48 volts and that applied to a 4 ohm speaker would be 12 amps PEAK maximums. BUT the RMS power is one half that or about 288 Watts in round figures before considering losses.

Many car amps are designed to run with 2 ohm speakers... JUST SO THEY CAN CLAIM massive power values in their ads so you will buy them!

Jan 21, 2011 | Peavey SP2 PA Passive Speaker

Check the bottom of your answering machine. It should have the required power adapter listed. At least my answering machine had a nice clear label.

My 1337 AT&T answering machine uses the DAS-2 power adapter. This outputs 9V 780mA. Googling the adapter number I found that the Lucent 1715 also uses the DAS-2 adapter. (The Lucent is probably identical to the AT&T but check your machine.)

I found a used one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/LUCENT-TECHNOLOGIES-DAS-2-TELEPHONE-POWER-UNIT-9-VAC-/250730379907 . There may be other e-bay sellers with the item.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

My 1337 AT&T answering machine uses the DAS-2 power adapter. This outputs 9V 780mA. Googling the adapter number I found that the Lucent 1715 also uses the DAS-2 adapter. (The Lucent is probably identical to the AT&T but check your machine.)

I found a used one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/LUCENT-TECHNOLOGIES-DAS-2-TELEPHONE-POWER-UNIT-9-VAC-/250730379907 . There may be other e-bay sellers with the item.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Dec 08, 2010 | AT&T 1725 Answering Machine

Answer

Simple Answer is just to know two formulas

Ohm's Law

V = IR

Power

P = IV

From those you can calculate voltage, amps, watts, ohms

V = Voltage (volts)

I = Current (amps or amperes)

R = Resistance (ohm's)

P = Power (watts)

Just solve for what you are missing.

Voltage times amps being drawn shows watts produced.

Watts divided by voltage shows amps being drawn or watts

divided by amperage shows voltage applied.

Simple Answer is just to know two formulas

Ohm's Law

V = IR

Power

P = IV

From those you can calculate voltage, amps, watts, ohms

V = Voltage (volts)

I = Current (amps or amperes)

R = Resistance (ohm's)

P = Power (watts)

Just solve for what you are missing.

Voltage times amps being drawn shows watts produced.

Watts divided by voltage shows amps being drawn or watts

divided by amperage shows voltage applied.

Sep 28, 2010 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

Can not believe NO ONE could answer this.

The R1 resistor basically drops the 9V to around 5V for charging the battery pack. The resistor is a 10 ohm , 2 watt resistor. The other resistor is 220 ohm. This only limits the current to the LED.

The 10 ohm resistor burnt because the battery pack was left to sit too long without use and charging. So the cells shorted causing excessive current through the resistor when you attempted to charge the batteries.

After replacing the resistor, you will need to replace the battery pack before charging. Otherwise, you'll just burn the resistor again.

The R1 resistor basically drops the 9V to around 5V for charging the battery pack. The resistor is a 10 ohm , 2 watt resistor. The other resistor is 220 ohm. This only limits the current to the LED.

The 10 ohm resistor burnt because the battery pack was left to sit too long without use and charging. So the cells shorted causing excessive current through the resistor when you attempted to charge the batteries.

After replacing the resistor, you will need to replace the battery pack before charging. Otherwise, you'll just burn the resistor again.

Sep 27, 2010 | Bissell 1715-G Spotlifter Bagless Handheld...

No - it is not 2 ohm mono stable

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

- 1000W max power
- 165W x 2, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.04% THD + N, at 4 Ohms
- 200W x 2, 20 - 20kHz, @ 0.15% THD + N, at 2 Ohms
- 400W x 1, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.1% THD + N, at 4 Ohms
- OTL (Output Transformerless) circuit
- Pulse power supply
- Line & High Level Inputs
- .3-6V Level Adjustment Control (RCA Pin Jacks) 1.2-12V (High Level Input)
- 80 Hz, -18dB/octave Low Pass Filter Switch

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Sep 13, 2010 | Sony Xplod XM-1652Z Car Audio Amplifier

Golf carts do not have a charging system. If you are going to use battery power only, why not just add (1) 12V car battery instead of (2) 8V??

MA Audio runs (ran) their bench tests @ 17V. All the power ratings advertized are at 17V.

The power supply for the hk4000D is unregulated. So the more voltage = more power.. 8V-16VDC.

RMS Power @ 14.4V
RMS Power @ 17.0V

Don't expect the amplifier to work for very long however. the current drain on a class D amplifier is huge. There are no on-board fuses protecting the power supplies, so be sure to have at lease a 150A power line fuse.

With 150A current draw - even with the amplifier at 1/2 gain - expect to get 10.6 minutes of listening time from your 16 volts before recharging - also note, the amplifier MUST see 8V to turn on, there is a built-in voltage sensor that will shut down the amplifier if voltage is too low.

MA Audio runs (ran) their bench tests @ 17V. All the power ratings advertized are at 17V.

The power supply for the hk4000D is unregulated. So the more voltage = more power.. 8V-16VDC.

- 1800W x 1 @ 4 Ohm
- 3600W x 1 @ 2 Ohm

- 2000W @ 4 Ohm
- 4000W @ 2 Ohm

Don't expect the amplifier to work for very long however. the current drain on a class D amplifier is huge. There are no on-board fuses protecting the power supplies, so be sure to have at lease a 150A power line fuse.

With 150A current draw - even with the amplifier at 1/2 gain - expect to get 10.6 minutes of listening time from your 16 volts before recharging - also note, the amplifier MUST see 8V to turn on, there is a built-in voltage sensor that will shut down the amplifier if voltage is too low.

Jan 23, 2009 | MA Audio HK4000D Car Audio Amplifier

9VAC 780mA Lucent power adapter model DAS-2

http://cgi.ebay.com/9VAC-780mA-Lucent-power-adapter-model-DAS-2_W0QQitemZ400058784645QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090702?IMSfp=TL090702188003r11483

http://cgi.ebay.com/9VAC-780mA-Lucent-power-adapter-model-DAS-2_W0QQitemZ400058784645QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090702?IMSfp=TL090702188003r11483

Dec 20, 2008 | Lands Phones

Your amps wattage is determined first by alternator voltage, amperage, Then all, and I do mean all, the wiring from there to the battery, battery terminal condition, amp connection, wire size, power and ground and the resistance of every connection.

Next comes the amp itself, Is the RMS rating honest ?

Their is no FTC law or standard governing car audio specs.or for that matter, even home theater except for the two front channels, but I digress.

The amp itself comes in a few flavors A, B, AB, D and those are just the basics. except for D most are only 50% efficient.

Why do you suppose they make such good heaters ? ( wasted power)

You also have regulated, non-regulated, low voltage only regulated etc. etc.....

Than their is bridging, It's a generic term for using both voltage rails in the amp to accomplish more power at the cost of sound quality. There ain't no free lunch.

Speaker size or rating has absolutely no bearing on wattage,

The only parameters here are impedance and efficiency (larger is usually a little more efficient and go's lower in frequency). And power handling (voice coil and Magnet assembly (heatsink)

So your options are, custom wound alternator, big wires.a capacitor, only helps for transients (a very short durations of sound) Extra batteries will only give you longer play time before you have to start the car,

It's important to have a properly constructed and internally braced box, 3/4 MDF minimum, well sealed.

In order of SPL, declining power handling and increase in size they are, sealed, ported, and bandpass.

Oh. Did I mention money?

What does a remote have to do with SPL ? Beats Me.

Class dismissed, Sumthin

Next comes the amp itself, Is the RMS rating honest ?

Their is no FTC law or standard governing car audio specs.or for that matter, even home theater except for the two front channels, but I digress.

The amp itself comes in a few flavors A, B, AB, D and those are just the basics. except for D most are only 50% efficient.

Why do you suppose they make such good heaters ? ( wasted power)

You also have regulated, non-regulated, low voltage only regulated etc. etc.....

Than their is bridging, It's a generic term for using both voltage rails in the amp to accomplish more power at the cost of sound quality. There ain't no free lunch.

Speaker size or rating has absolutely no bearing on wattage,

The only parameters here are impedance and efficiency (larger is usually a little more efficient and go's lower in frequency). And power handling (voice coil and Magnet assembly (heatsink)

So your options are, custom wound alternator, big wires.a capacitor, only helps for transients (a very short durations of sound) Extra batteries will only give you longer play time before you have to start the car,

It's important to have a properly constructed and internally braced box, 3/4 MDF minimum, well sealed.

In order of SPL, declining power handling and increase in size they are, sealed, ported, and bandpass.

Oh. Did I mention money?

What does a remote have to do with SPL ? Beats Me.

Class dismissed, Sumthin

Jun 04, 2008 | Volfenhag ZX-8200 Car Audio Amplifier

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