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I have kenmore stack washer dryer. I believe it's a 2017 model. I use liquid deferent but i'm getting white streaks almost chalky on my dark items. I do not use a white additive like oxyclean.

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6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: directions on stacking dryer on washer

get a stacking kit from your local appliance strore that sells frigidaire. they ARE EASY TO STACK WITH THE KIT.

Posted on Nov 16, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: stacking kenmores

Yes. When I bought my washer and dryer, it came with the stacking kit.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

Anonymous

  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Washer/Dryer Stack -- Need to replace Washer

first of all. comming from a Sears Technician.. (don't yell) -- the delivery drivers only know about delivering stuff. they dont know too much,
if the two are the same size they can be stacked.
sometimes have to rig something up
and yes, for that model the top is removed, clips go on the rear and screwed at the front.
in some areas it is sold seperatly as a stacking kit

Posted on May 28, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1185 Answers

SOURCE: White streaks on dark clothes after washing.

Reduce the load !!

You are getting white streaks because the clothes are so compressed the machine is not agitating them correctly.

My daughter gets the same problem and she still insists on packing the clothes in.

My wife washes the same clothes for her with the right load and they come out fine

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

blueextc3221

blueextc3221

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore stack washer/dryer combo. model #

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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