Question about Dometic Refrigerators
The Dometic RML 8555 refrigerator in my RV works fine on AC, but isn't working on propane or DC. I want to be sure that the problem is the control board before I spend several hundred dollars for one. check back control board see if voltage to gas valve if on propane if on 12 volt electric see if voltage to heater element
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
tap on the gas valve with a wrench,not too hard but not too light about 10 times,the valve is probably sticky from not being used,re-light and see what happens.
Posted on May 10, 2009
not likely but possible. if they already had one bad board what's to say their production methods have changed since they made your last bad board. I have just had 6 bad compressors from this chinese company danfoss in one month! for only 2 freezers i have installed 3 bad compressors in each! nobody takes pride in production anymore they want the stuff to break.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
well if you find one let me know???
if it only works when upright start carrying some jacks with you then if its leaning over jack that side up a bit till its flat!
Posted on Oct 23, 2009
The older units has a 3 VDC glow coil the newer units have a 12VDC igniter.
Fromwhat your described above the next paragragh is your ignition system.
The igniter control voltages in the newer SPARK type igniters are (+) = 12VDC, (L)= high voltage lead (Spark plug voltage! I.e ruin your meter type voltage), (-)= Ground L is the lead that passes the HV spark from the control unit to the ignitor plate. The L lead should pass one heck of a hit if is workng correctly.
If not look at the HV lead to see if it is grounding out somewhere.
If the gas safety valve is not sensing gas pressure... you will not have 12VDC to the + terminal of the ignition moudule.
With the gas on and you have 12VDC at the ignition module + terminal then most likely the ignition module is bad.
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
Check any fuses/circuit breakers in harness from battery. That battery should supply 12 volts dc to fridge lugs/terminals at bottom of fridge on outside behind vent.
If battery is good and hooked up properly but no 12 volts to fridge, then you will have to trace back to battery for broken /bad wire. If you want to test quickly, just run 2 jumper wires from battery to those 2 lugs marked + and - Battery + to + (pos)at fridge, and - battery to -Neg at fridge. That should allow you to run it on propane or 12 volt. Remember, running it on 12 volts will kill that battery pretty quick, unless it's being charged. When you are plugged in, the converter supplies the 12 volts to your fridge, as well as should be charging your battery.
Posted on Jun 22, 2010
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