Question about GE Ovens
Backward C on control Of upper and lower oven
This means that the Sabbath mode has been enabled. To disable the program, first press and release the Cancel/Off to stop the current programmed bake settings. Then press and hold Settings until Sabbath Mode Off is displayed. See page 14 of the manual for setting the Sabbath mode. The manual is available on the product page: https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/assembly/C2S995SEL1SS . The current link to the manual is https://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-85241.pdf . Most GE oven codes are listed here: https://www.geappliances.ca/en/support/knowledgebase/range-oven-function-error-or-fault-codes . The Sabbath Mode symbol is shown at the bottom of the table.
This mode can be used to set the oven temperature for an extended bake (usually for a low temperature) or a programmed bake. It's used by those who strictly keep the Sabbath but want a hot meal ready when the Sabbath ends.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 06, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat
cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Dec 27, 2006
I have the single oven of this style and I had to replace the thermocouple (part number 4450934) on the back of the oven three times (used the cleaning cycle three times). After using the cleaning cycle, the oven would not heat so each time I had to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back so I could change the part. Once a new part was put on the back of the oven, it worked fine. To pull the oven out, open the oven door and look down by the doors hinges. On each side you will see a screw that's holding the side molding on. Remove the screws and then the molding. That will give you access to the screws that hold the oven into the framing around the oven. Remove the screws and then you can pull the oven out to access the back to change the thermocouple. The oven is heavy so you may want some help to get out. It is not a one man job, maybe a one man and wife job. It is heavy. I hope this helps. Better late than never.
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
The control switch may be bad on it. If there are 2 elements on the top, they both are not bad at the same time.Check to see if the wires have not burned off the control switch first. Check to see if your breakers are O.K. Turn them both(maybe 3) off and then reset.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
If your electric oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating lelement in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..
Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
Posted on Jul 30, 2010
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