Question about Dryers
It appears you have electric dryer, if it were gas, the gas would ground the dryer if you know what i mean. Electric dryer would be 240 volts, which is two 120 volt lines or two hots, should include a grounding wire but evidently there is no ground. Ground, equipment ground, safety ground, is to protect from shock hazards and fire too.
Make sure the machine has a ground connected, it would be in the cord or connect a wire directly to the dryer metal chasis and to a metal cold water pipe or electric service ground and test if it works after grounding the machine. Some dryers are 120/240 volts.
Posted on Oct 23, 2019
It seems there is a Short circuit to the drum etc.... which is why the thermostat fuse blew.... DANGER.....Do not try to fix this your self..
Posted on Oct 23, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Take off the back plate of the drier to expose heating elements. There you will find two thermo switches, one with a hole in the middle of it. Push something like a pin into this hole until you hear a click. Re assemble back plate and it should work now
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
SOURCE: My hoover condenser dryer model
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
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Posted on Dec 31, 2010
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