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My GE profile oven has stated to give me the beeping f2 code. However, it continues to cook perfectly fine. My F2 code pops up when the oven is turned off and it is cooling down. I can hit the clear/end button and the code will go away but then it might pop up again. Other times it will not throw an error code at all. I’m going to start with the temp sensor, any other ideas?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Charlie Popeck

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: F2 Error code displays with audible beep.

The F2 typically means an overtemperature conditions:
1. over 650 degrees F unlatched or 915 degrees F latched.
2. cooling fan stalled while over above 650 degrees F or an oper thermal switch in the yellow leads.
Check for:
1.Welded relay contacts
2.Cooling fan stalled or blocked air flow to rear of unit.
3.High resitance in over sensor leads/connectors, especially at sensor in rear.

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

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Anonymous

SOURCE: F2 message when self cleaning

I have the exact problem, had a service man look at it while still under warranty. He said it was fixed and left. Tried it again, same problem. Called him back 2 times after that, he quit responding to my calls. By tyhen warranty expired and GE refused to do anything.

Posted on Dec 16, 2007

erica graber

  • 530 Answers

SOURCE: F2 and F3 code appearing along with annoying beeping

i think f3 error code has something to do with the temp probe maybe it is the problem. the temp probe is located if you open the door directly in the back wall. it looks like a prong. should read 1100ohms the f2 error code though usually has something to do with the keypad i would check all the connections maybe they are loose.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

Mukesh Kumar

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

dblred

Shane Moore

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: f2 & f3 alert

thank you for the info. you need to replace the oven sensor. an F2 error is oven is to hot. an F3 error is a shorted or open oven sensor. the oven sensor is easy to change, and not very expensive. if you have further questions, let me know. shane

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

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Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion

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