Question about JVC Video Cameras
see web page http://www.jvc.co.uk/knowledge-list.php?id=4#0 Important Notice to Camcorder Customers A. JVC has received reports that in certain circumstances, a small quantity of units of the models listed below, may, while in the camera mode, show no picture, a distorted picture and/or display "LENS CAP" even though the lens cap is removed. We have identified the cause as a failure of the CCD image sensor. Until 1st October 2007, JVC will cover the cost of repairs of units exhibiting these symptoms. If your product is within the twelve month manufacturer's warranty, please return it to your retailer who will arrange a repair under the terms and conditions of the warranty. If your product is outside warranty, please write to: JVC Consumer Support JVC UK Ltd 14 Priestley Way London NW2 7BA Please enclose a copy of your purchase receipt and warranty certificate. Please note that proof of purchase is required. PLEASE DO NOT SEND YOUR CAMERA DIRECTLY TO JVC. You should send ONLY your purchase receipt and warranty certificate with a covering letter. JVC will contact you to advise how the repair will be carried out. Please call 0870-330-5000 if you need any assistance in obtaining a free repair. We apologise for any inconvenience and are appreciative of your understanding and support. Model Numbers Affected VHS-C Camcorders GR-FX15E, GR-FXM393E, GR-FXM39E, GR-FX16E, GR-FXM404E, GR-FXM40E, GR-SX19E, GR-SX25E, GR-SXM29E, GR-SXM49E, GR-SX26E, GR-SXM30E, GR-SXM50E DVC Camcorders GR-D20E, GR-D21E, GR-D22E, GR-D30E, GR-D31E, GR-D40E, GR-D50E, GR-D60E, GR-D70E, GR-DX25E, GR-DX35E, GR-DX45E, GR-DX55E, GR-DX75E, GR-DX95E, GR-PD1E, JY-HD10E, GR-D18E, GR-D225E, GR-D23E, GR-D24E, GR-D32E, GR-D33E, GR-D34E, GR-D43E, GR-D53E, GR-D54E, GR-D63E, GR-D73E, GR-DX27E, GR-DX28E, GR-DX36E, GR-DX37E, GR-DX47E, GR-DX48E, GR-DX57E, GR-DX67E, GR-DX77E, GR-DX78E, GR-DX97E
Posted on Jul 31, 2007
SOURCE: JVC Everio GZ-MC275AA
Video streaming is possible with DV camcorders thanks to the Firewire port (IEEE1394), which works very much like a digital video in/out connection. Basically, the camera just sends video, and if there's a computer attached, it receives the video and decides what to do with it on a computer.
USB doesn't work that way, normally. Most tapeless camcorders automatically set up the webcam as a storage device, which is a very distinct thing from a video streaming device. A storage device is just a disc of some kind... it will show up under some letter (eg, K:) in Windows, when you attach the camcorder.
Some USB camcorders allow for a "webcam" or "streaming" mode... I didn't find any specifics on your JVC, but I know some of the Panasonics support this. There are two ways. One is that, if you have the camera in record/standby mode, it may just go automatically into webcam mode when you attach USB.
The other way is that the camera will have something in the menus, like "Live mode" or "Webcam mode" that instructs it to configure USB for video streaming rather than storage-class attachement.
And of course, some of the tapeless camcorders have a Firewire port, just like a DV camcorder, which is there specifically to allow for streaming video, etc. You could use your camcorder as a web camera over Firewire, given the proper software... though you might find that's just as expensive as buying
And given the price of actual webcams, I would consider buying one
rather than adding wear and tear to my camcorders, just based on
price. This is the same reason I have a DV tape rewind device.. $20 device, $2000
camcorder... easy math.
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
First remove the stand. Then at the bottom of the monitor there are two small openings an inch or two from each edge. Starting there with WIDE flat blade screw driver (or a couple of them) it IS possible to pop the catches that hold the back of the case to the front. You have to go around the case very carefully popping each catch and preventing the areas you have opened from becoming re-latched. I found some wood popsicle sticks good for that.
If you search for "LCD Monitor Repair" you can find sites that have video's of several Dell models (but not this exact one) any that use the "pop open" case are pretty much similar.
One note after you get inside. The power supply board had the WORST solder job I have seen in a long time. The failure in the unit I repaired was due to open solder joints on the hi-voltage transformers taking out the power transistor's that drove them. It took me two months, but I found some replacement transistors on ebay and after resoldering many of the joints on the board it the monitor works fine.
I attribute part of the failure to the use of Lead free solder which is becoming common in all consumer electronics. It makes for brittle connections that fail easily and there is also the issue of tin whisker growth that will hit in a few years down the road.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
SOURCE: Remove cover
Did you remove the base from the back? If so, there are two stating slots at the bottom of the screen. A fine blade screwdriver will release these tabs. Once down, the front bezel will pull away but you'll need a flat blade screwdriver (preferably made out of plastic). Slide this screwdriver between the front bezel and the screen frame which is metal. Don't allow the driver to get next to the screen because it will scratch easily. Using the driver you'll be able to pry away the bezel from the rear.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
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