Question about Samsung Refrigerators
I have pressed reset several times, changed water filter and ran water to purge air, reset temperature to coldest setting. It has been plugged back in for several day.
CALL YOUR LOCAL REPAIR SHOP , IT NEEDS FREON ADDED AND YOU CAN NOT DO IT YOURSELF
Posted on Dec 10, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The most likely fault is a problem with the defrost cycle. The most likely is the defrost heater which should be a solid bar which is located directly underneath the coil. If you are capable then you can generally unplug the connectors for the heater and check that you have a resistance across the ends if the heater is faulty it will be open circuit. If it is not open circuit then it could be the defrost sensor or defrost timer at fault. You can also generally tell if the heater is warped or cracked. Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Sep 06, 2007
what about the freezer?. Check door seals with a dollar bill, close the door with the bill in different spots, if bill comes out to easy then seals might be bad or a door adjustment is in order. Make sure the coils underneath or behind do not have a layer of dirt on them. Try these simple steps and let us know thanks
Posted on Dec 08, 2007
SOURCE: SAMSUNG RS253BAWW NOT WORKING
the ice maker wont cycle untill the temp of the ice is around 10 degrees so if the freezer is at 15 or 20 due to some other malfunction then you will see the maker full of ice but it wont harvest and make another batch. so you could have a sensor bad, control malfunction, refrigeration issue, compressor, defrost system malfunction(you mentioned ice build up)
Posted on May 08, 2008
The GE Profile Refrigerator has circuit boards and sensors are in the freezer that sends a signal to the circuit board to begin and end the defrost cycle. It is very possible the sensor or the circuit board are defective and will need replaced. I will help you solve this if you like. This refrigerator is complex and will take more discussion with you to complete the repair, I am here to help, let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
SOURCE: i have a maytag side
Checking defrost components on Maytag SideXSide refrigerators
To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
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