Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My kenmore 80 series (top
The symptoms you describe are often caused by a lid switch malfunction. It may be loose or not making good contact. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:
This is a simple and inexpensive repair. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you require further assistance.
Posted on Aug 13, 2008
Check out this you tube. Had the same problem today. Tipped washer on its side and replaced coupler between motor and gearbox. Parts are about $15
This is a good diagnosis video.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If your model number is correct, the lid switch for your washer is located under the right hand side of the washer casing along the wash tub rim. The switch is activated by a small plastic piece on the washer lid (called a "lid strike") through a small hole. The switch contacts close when you shut the lid. In many cases, the lid switch either comes loose, or the lid strike breaks off. In both cases, the washer will exhibit the symptoms you describe.
Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" sound as the switch contacts close. If you cannot hear the switch, make sure the lid strike is intact and the mounting screws for the lid switch (located around the wash tub opening on the casing) are tight. Sometimes, all it takes is to tighten the lid switch screws to realign it with the lid strike. If the switch is defective, or the strike is missing, parts can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number, which can be found on a nameplate under the washer lid. The lid switch and lid strike will be listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. Other sites that offer competitive pricing are repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com. If you require instructions on how to replace the switch, you may use the following link:
If you have questions, or if the diagnosis is incorrect, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main
agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
that is very possible.the best thing to do is replace the lid or sand all the rust off and you some rust inhibitive paint to helpslow or stop the rusting proccess.
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
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