We have got honeywell em150 motor operated actuator. however its wiring diagram is missing. can you provide the same

The Power Door Lock System is controlled by the body control module (BCM) and can be activated by any one of the following
?€¢
A door lock switch lock or unlock actuation.

?€¢
A door lock cylinder switch unlock actuation.

?€¢
A keyless entry transmitter actuation.

?€¢
An automatic door lock actuation (Personalization function).

?€¢
An automatic door unlock actuation (Personalization function).

?€¢
A last door closed locking (LDCL) actuation (Personalization function).

Door Lock Operation
When the body control module (BCM) detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the lock position, it switches the door lock actuator lock control circuit to voltage. Since the lock actuator unlock control circuits are at ground potential within the BCM, the door lock actuator motors transition to the lock position.
Driver Door Unlock Operation
When the body control module (BCM) detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the unlock position, it switches the driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit to voltage. Since the door lock actuator lock control circuit is at ground potential within the BCM, the left front (LF) door lock actuator motor transitions to the Unlock position.
The driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit is a dedicated control circuit used only for the driver door lock actuator motor. This is done so that the driver door may be unlocked by itself using a keyless entry transmitter or an automatic door unlock function (if programmed).
Faulty electrical connections or wiring may be the cause of intermittent conditions. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections.
A factory scan tool would help for checking inputs from the door switches to the BCM ! You could do it with out scan tool , a lot more work involved ! Need a wiring diagram an a component location chart an wiring harness routing diagram !
Most intermittent conditions are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring. Inspect for the following items:
?€¢
Wiring broken inside the insulation

?€¢
Poor connection between the male and female terminal at a connector

?€¢
Poor terminal to wire connection--Some conditions which fall under this description are poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over the wire insulation rather than the wire itself, and corrosion in the wire to terminal contact area, etc.

?€¢
Pierced or damaged insulation can allow moisture to enter the wiring causing corrosion. The conductor can corrode inside the insulation, with little visible evidence. Look for swollen and stiff sections of wire in the suspect circuits.

?€¢
Wiring which has been pinched, cut, or its insulation rubbed through may cause an intermittent open or short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the vehicle.

?€¢
Wiring that comes in contact with hot or exhaust components

?€¢
Refer to Inducing Intermittent Fault Conditions in order to duplicate the conditions required, in order to verify the customer concern.

?€¢
Refer to Testing for Electrical Intermittents for test procedures to detect intermittent open, high resistance, short to ground, and short to voltage conditions.

?€¢
Refer to Scan Tool Snapshot Procedure for advanced intermittent diagnosis and Vehicle Data Recorder operation.

You should take it to a ASE certified repair shop if not familiar with Automotive electronics !

Hi,
could you provide the exact model number or the product you need the wiring diagram for



Thanks
Proton

There is a little motor on the heater box under the dash that needs to be replaced. It's called a blend door actuator...

There are two motors, and three relays in the system. Here's how it works:

The headlight door motors reverse direction by reversing polarity. However, the automatic shut off (high torque switch, or HTS) makes that a rather more complex task than at first it might seem.

That's because when a motor reaches its limit, one of the 'wires' is disconnected from the motor by the HTS. Reversing the polarity at this point wouldn't do anything since the circuit is broken by the HTS.

Consequently, each motor has three wires for control. The combination of the blue wire, gray wire, and green wire provide polarity reversal to the motor (to make it able to run in both directions) and to run each motor from its resting state, after it has shut off.

There are of course two motors. They operate and are controlled identically.

Here's the matrix:

RIGHT HAND MOTOR

Blu Grn Gry
up: (+) (-)
dn: (+) (-)

That is, in order to run the motor up, the system connects the green wire to the hot side and the gray wire to ground. In order to run the motor down, the system connects the blue wire to the hot side, and the green wire to ground.

The left hand motor operates the same, except for its blue wire is actually blue with white stripes.

There is an actuator relay for each light mounted on the body of the light housing. There is also an isolator relay, mounted on the fender wall on the driver's side. When operating properly, the two actuator relays act identically.

The actuator relays get their instructions from the isolation relay. When the motors need to run down, the isolation relay is not energized, the blue (and blue/white) wires make with the hot side through the closed contacts of the isolation relay (which is not energized), and the ground is furnished to the motor through the closed contacts of the actuator relay until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, neither the motors nor the relays draw any current in the full down position.

When it's time to go up, the actuator relays are energized when the pink wires coming from the isolation relay are connected to the hot side through the newly closed contacts of the isolation relay, the isolation relay is energized because the yellow wire coming from the head light switch is now hot.

When the actuator relays are energized, they furnish 12v from the always hot red wires, through their newly closed contacts, to the green wire. The motor is grounded through the newly closed contacts of the actuator relays. The motors will run up until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, with the light doors in the full up position, all relays are energized and draw current, but the motors do not.

There are very counterintuitive things about this circuitry: When the motors are running UP, both the hot side and the ground are furnished by and through the actuator relay. However, when the motors are running DOWN, only the ground is furnished by the actuator relay because the blue and blue/white wires do not run to or through the actuator relay.

Similarly counterintuitive, when the motors are running down, the hot side is supplied by and through the isolation relay, but when they are running up, the hot side is supplied not by and through the isolation relay, but through the always hot fusible link.

That's how the headlamp door relays and motors work. The relays are not cheap but not terribly expensive, either: $17 ea for the actuator relays and $25 for the isolation relay. Proper trouble shooting can save a buck or two.

It is fairly easy to swap the actuator relays from side to side. If the symptoms change with them, then its probably the relays.

Although the actuator relays look similar to the isolation relay, they are very different, they cannot be swapped. Please note that the system is very interdependent, and it's easy to see why Chevrolet changed to electronic (as opposed to electro-mechanical) controls.
Hope this helps.

Is the motor designed for dual voltages? The manual does not have a wiring diagram. I assume the motor lable diagram is faded or missing.

Dual voltage motors contain two sets of winding. Each set is rated for the lower voltage. To operate the motor on the higher voltage the windings must be connected in series. AND, they must be connected in the same direction. I use a variac to apply 30-40 VAC to the coils in various combinations, then measure the open lead voltage to determine the proper connections. This test should be performed by a licensed electrician.

Honeywell posts pdf manuals.
Google seArch Honeywell V8043E .pdf
Include .pdf in search parameter to find manual with wiring diagrams.
http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/related_links/water/5000_series/install/95c_10932.pdf

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

see the diagram attached and think clearly and logically, NOT feared. test any connection continuity, fuses, see for corrosion, tes the switch for defective or dirty, and motor.,loose connector or connector God bless you

Hello, in order to turn your humidifier on with the furnace the 120 volts coming from your humidifer you must hook it up to a step down transformer, then the transformer will provide 24 volts to you humidistat and solenoid valve. So you need a wire from the HUM on your control board to transformer primary side and a wire from neutral on the board to primary side of transformer. Then you need low voltage wire from secondary side of transformer to humidistat from humidistat to humidifier.

do a google search for both of those items. is the new t-stat battery operated. if it is you can use the wire that use to go on common