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Possible leak. How does one lift the top to get at the inside to see. I am making the assumption that the top lifts, perhaps access is gained through the back???

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

Posted on Feb 13, 2011

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Wgd5600xw0


Chances are either the idler pulley is getting too worn or the motor, which I've seen in a few rare cases is making the squeeking noise you are refering to. I'll post a walk-through on how to access the inside of the dryer, I believe yours is the the first design I talk about.
There are 4 different designs that used on these dryers and each one has its own specific way to access the element, blower, fuses. etc In this FAQ I will describe each design and method to access for each one. ---------------Design 1: This design for this dryer has the heating components located in the front of the machine, which means to gain access you'll have to lift the top and remove the front. You can visually verify this specific type because the lint screen is located inside the dryer requiring you to open the door to gain access to it. As with any do itself repair, always unplug the machine before you start. Here's the method of access listed in numerical order. 1) Remove the lower kick plate by pressing in the two clips, one on each side located in between the upper and lower portion of the front In doing this you'll gain access to the element, located on the right hand side facing, the high limit and thermostat fuse located on the element, the cycling thermostat, located on the blower housing, and thermal fuse, located next to the cycling thermostat. In gas models the gas coils and ignitor may be located on the left hand side facing. If changing the belt, rollers or motor, continue to step two. 2) Lift the top by placing a flat head screwdriver in between the front and the top of the dryer and pry it upwards. In some cases there are two metal clips, one on the left and one on the right, that need to be pushed forward to lift the top up. 3) With the top up and the kickplate removed take the door springs off, one on each side, and remove the door by taking out the 4 screws one upper left and right, one lower left and right, off and don't forget to disconnect your door switch-----------------Design 2 : In this design the heating components are located in the rear of the machine. All you have to do is get behind the dryer, remove the 9 1/4" screws and remove the panel. The element eill on the right had side with the two fuses located on it, the cycle and thermal fuse will be on the lower left on the blower housing. To access the belt, rollers etc, remove the lint trap on top, take out the two screws that are underneath it and using a flat head screwdriver pop the top up. Next, located the two screws that are on the upper left and right inside front of the machine that hold the front. Remove these and then you'll be able to lift and pull the dryer front completely off.--------------Design 3 : In this design the components are located in the front of the machine, but to access them you'll follow the method used in design 2 for accessing the belt, rollers, etc.take out the two screws that are underneath it and using a flat head screwdriver pop the top up. Next, located the two screws that are on the upper left and right inside front of the machine that hold the front. Remove these and then you'll be able to lift and pull the dryer front completely off. The set up will be like design one.--------------- Note: The best way to determine if your dryer is desgin 2 or 3, remove lint trap and pop the top. When you've got this done, you'll be able to look in between the inside rear wall and the rear panel and see if the element, fuses atc are there. If not it will be design 3---------Design 4 : HE, HE2, Duet, etc the way you take the top off is a little different. For these machines, there are 3 to 4 screws located on the top back side you'll need to remove, and then the dryer top can be slid back and removed. From there you'll remove the kickplate in come cases by taking the 3 or 4 screws off located at the bottom of the kickplate. With that removed you will be able to remove the front, but only after you remmove the control panel. The In some cases the components will be located in the rear like the second design.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

May 21, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer noise


First check the tumblers inside the drum to make sure that none of them are loose. AFter that you'll need to gain access to the inner workings of the machine.
There are 4 different designs that used on these dryers and each one has its own specific way to access the element, blower, fuses. etc In this FAQ I will describe each design and method to access for each one. ---------------Design 1: This design for this dryer has the heating components located in the front of the machine, which means to gain access you'll have to lift the top and remove the front. You can visually verify this specific type because the lint screen is located inside the dryer requiring you to open the door to gain access to it. As with any do itself repair, always unplug the machine before you start. Here's the method of access listed in numerical order. 1) Remove the lower kick plate by pressing in the two clips, one on each side located in between the upper and lower portion of the front In doing this you'll gain access to the element, located on the right hand side facing, the high limit and thermostat fuse located on the element, the cycling thermostat, located on the blower housing, and thermal fuse, located next to the cycling thermostat. In gas models the gas coils and ignitor may be located on the left hand side facing. If changing the belt, rollers or motor, continue to step two. 2) Lift the top by placing a flat head screwdriver in between the front and the top of the dryer and pry it upwards. In some cases there are two metal clips, one on the left and one on the right, that need to be pushed forward to lift the top up. 3) With the top up and the kickplate removed take the door springs off, one on each side, and remove the door by taking out the 4 screws one upper left and right, one lower left and right, off and don't forget to disconnect your door switch-----------------Design 2 : In this design the heating components are located in the rear of the machine. All you have to do is get behind the dryer, remove the 9 1/4" screws and remove the panel. The element eill on the right had side with the two fuses located on it, the cycle and thermal fuse will be on the lower left on the blower housing. To access the belt, rollers etc, remove the lint trap on top, take out the two screws that are underneath it and using a flat head screwdriver pop the top up. Next, located the two screws that are on the upper left and right inside front of the machine that hold the front. Remove these and then you'll be able to lift and pull the dryer front completely off.--------------Design 3 : In this design the components are located in the front of the machine, but to access them you'll follow the method used in design 2 for accessing the belt, rollers, etc.take out the two screws that are underneath it and using a flat head screwdriver pop the top up. Next, located the two screws that are on the upper left and right inside front of the machine that hold the front. Remove these and then you'll be able to lift and pull the dryer front completely off. The set up will be like design one.--------------- Note: The best way to determine if your dryer is desgin 2 or 3, remove lint trap and pop the top. When you've got this done, you'll be able to look in between the inside rear wall and the rear panel and see if the element, fuses atc are there. If not it will be design 3---------Design 4 : HE, HE2, Duet, etc the way you take the top off is a little different. For these machines, there are 3 to 4 screws located on the top back side you'll need to remove, and then the dryer top can be slid back and removed. From there you'll remove the kickplate in come cases by taking the 3 or 4 screws off located at the bottom of the kickplate. With that removed you will be able to remove the front, but only after you remmove the control panel. The In some cases the components will be located in the rear like the second design

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

May 20, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

My LTE5243D top load stacked washer is about 10 years old. How do you take the front panel off to access the washer's motor coupling?


To gain access to the washer components, the front panel between washer and dryer must be removed first.
Remove the two top screws securing thethis panel to the unit.Tilt the transition panel down and pull itstraight out.Remove the two screws located behind the washer top.Pull the washer top forward to disengage the top locks. Disconnect the washer lid switch harness. Lift the washer top off the unit.Remove the two screws from inside the top of the washer front panel.Lift up on the front panel to release the catches near the bottom of the panel andremove the front panel.

Apr 24, 2012 | Whirlpool LTE5243D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Rightside, rear window motor failed. or the mechanical part perhaps. what i want to know is how to get to that part of the car. The driver seat behind the panel. Thank you wery much! Patrik


Long job and not for the faint of heart.

Open roof to rear.

Pull up on rear seat bottom and remove it.

Remove center panel.

Remove three Allen head bolts down behind seat cushion back.

Lift off head rests...pull up.

Raise top just enough to make side flaps flip up.

Remove nut at top rear corner.

Remove Nylon/plastic push lock rivet where seat belt goes through panel... top corner.

Pull panel off mounting pins...will sound like your breaking it !

Lift panel to access seat belt bolt and unplug Flip-Up panel motor.

Remove cable from it's clip.

Remove loom thro' panel.

Pull seat belt thro panel.

Set panel to one side.

Remove Torxs bolts around black plastic panel for speaker.

Unplug speaker.

Pull loom thro' hole.

Remove two Allen and 5 hex bolts where window would come out. if it worked.

Pull up plate and remove rubber seal to one side and then remove plate. remove two nuts at bottom of regulator and one half way up towards front.

Lift regulator and window glass up thro' top to gain access to three nuts holding glass tho regulator.

Lift out window and then regulator....little maneuvering and levering required.

FYI....Take digital pictures as you remove stuff for later reference.


New regulator and glass is around $600.00 from dealership and only the dealership.

Jan 12, 2011 | 2004 Volkswagen New Beetle Convertible

1 Answer

How do you remove the top/front of dryer?


Like a lot of the newer "energy efficient" models there is no longer an easy way to get to this stuff.
There are screws on the rear of the top that once removed will allow the top to slide back a little, then lifted off to expose the innards of ur machine. The front of the dryer has to be removed to gain access to the drive train. Some of these LG "laughing greatly" machines have to have the front electronic controls removed to be able to access the top screws that attach the front of ur dryer to the chassis, lucky you. Once you gain access to the screws for the front of ur unit, disconnect the door switch harness, pivot the front out slightly at the top and lift, the bottom is retained by clips. Then you can view the inner front support, rollers, belt, tensioner etc..
best of luck, and have fun,
ttfn

Feb 03, 2010 | LG DLE3777 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Makes a VERY loud noise as if unbalanced, but not! How do I open the fron panel to look inside?


access is gained thought the back of these units. Try using a flat screw driver to release the top of the unit you can see the tub and basket from there. Gently pry top up at the seam and dont lift to the point where you pull wiring and bend parts.

Dec 13, 2009 | Maytag MAV2755A Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Can't get the 2 top bolts out of my 1994 s10 blazer to replace the transmission. Help!


You may need to lift the body to get to them. I would loosen all of the body bolts and lift it just enough to get a swivel socket to them,

Nov 10, 2009 | Chevrolet Blazer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Kenmore gas dryer heats for several minutes ,then goes cold


I'm haveing the same problem with my frididaire gas dryer. I replaced the ignitor and cleaned the inside parts with a vacume and still having similar problems as yours. I think I will replace the temp. sensor that is attached to the flame tube inside the dryer next. To gain access to the inside parts you will need a putty knife to release the top panel. Just slide the putty knife along the top seam in front of the drryer. There are 2 clips that realease the top peice. With the top lifed up you will see 2 phillips head screws attaching the front panel to the dryer. Remove those screws and lift upwards and the front panel will lift right off the unit.carefully place the front panel to the side without damageing any wires attached. Then all your gas assembly parts will be visable in the bottom left cornner of the unit.

hope this helps,

Aug 23, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag A212 clothes washer, leaking on fill up.


Possibly Injector / Vacuum break unit has gone bad (mine started spilling water lately, 20 years old). Get a 216201 to replace in your vacuum break, or better (if the machine is older) replace everything from the water valve with a kit: SUB 206680 (INJECTOR HOSE KIT).

Quite easy to get to. Just open front panel (remove two screws at bottom, lift bottom of panel away from machine and swing out. Spring clips at top should release easily. Then remove two bolts that hold top cover down and lift top. Water injector/vacuum break will be at the rear left of the machine. Costs about $40 for the kit. Or $5 for the small rubber part (but I am replacing everything that is pressurized on my machine since it is 20yrs old). -- Kevin

Jul 19, 2008 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Admiral Leaking


Possibly rinsing with cold water, washing with hot.
Check inlet valves for leaks, especially cold (rinse)
Lift the top panel by inserting a flat blade approx 4" from each side at the front to release clips, then top will hinge backwards.
You can see the valves at the rear behind the drum..
You can run the machine with top lifted to see any more leaks.
Also remove front panel via 2 small screws to gain better view.

Jul 12, 2008 | Admiral AW22 Top Load Washer

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