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I'm trying to install an XMDA 7650 in a 1998 ford

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5 Suggested Answers

Marty marty

  • 883 Answers

SOURCE: wiring color codes for ford 2002 f250 radio

I can email full diagram to your email address...just post it here. I can tell you that power wires are:

1.) memory power (all times) is light grn / violet
2.) power in start position is red / black
3.)power w/ acc. delay is pink
4.) ground is black / light green

Posted on Nov 18, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: wire harness diagram

www.scosche.com will give you the cars wires, u may want to just by a harness adapter, cutting wires=bad


Don

Posted on Jan 02, 2008

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yoggish

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: no power light, red or blue after working for a year.

How did you get inside?

Posted on Jan 28, 2008

Anonymous

  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: wiring instructions for kenwood kdc-mp8533

dark blue is the remote for the amp
light blue is the remote for a power ant. (or amp)
orange is for the light dimmer (when you turn your lights on it will not be so bright, optional)
black is ground
brown is if you have a button in your car for a cell phone it will mute it when pushed (optional)
red is power (acc power)
yellow is always on power(for the clock and presets)
the rca jacks are for the amp they should be used if using an amp (there wattages are preset for amps anyway)

hook up the rca's to your amps along with the dark or light blue wires and when you turn the stereo on the amp will come on everything else should be hooked up as stated above. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

loumsc

Louis Davidson

  • 114 Answers

SOURCE: unplugged wires

Try Here!
http://www.msicomputer.com/product/p_spec.asp?model=K8NGM2-NBP&class=mb

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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Car deck memory issue


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The electrical system should handle the type of lighting you've installed. Not good practice to wire all of them directly to car's battery. If you run these lights for long periods of time, with engine off heavy load for your battery. you should hard wire to your fuse box and I would install relay switch for our extra lighting.

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I want to hook up some LED's to the accessory switch on my 2006 Ultra Classic, but I cannot find a connector when I trace the wiring harness, either behind the nacelle or under the seat.


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Have got Ford Trailer Harness Converter wiring set 7T4Z-15A416-B On the box, is a link to get PDF installation instructions at INFORD.COM Unfortunately, I cannot get this PDF Instructions as the site...


I know this post is old but in the interests of helping others ....


I installed the 7T4Z-15A416-B on a 2011 Ford Flex that has LED lights as standard.

I mounted the box on the LH side, inside the rear bumper. Since the box is outside the car, I gooped up the box with 'liquid tape' to seal the wire exits from the plastic casing.

The 4 color ribbon cable goes to the receiver area. I threaded mine through the hitch itself and used cable ties to limit vibration/abrasion.

I spliced the signal cables for LH turn indicator and tail/stop lights into the LH light wiring harness behind the rear lights.

The RH turn indicator has a longer wire which I threaded through the hitch and spliced it into the RH light cluster harness behind the RH light.

I connected the red +ve wire to the 12V feed to the 20A accessory socket in the rear cargo area. I put a small **** in a blanking grommet to bring the wire inside the vehicle.

The earth required drilling a hole into the body behind the LH light. i coated this also with 'liquid tape' for corrosion protection.

The Stop cable (which puzzled me for the longest time) went unused so covered it with insulating tape.

The harness works perfectly. The only caveat is the accessory outlet has to be powered up i.e. the ignition on.

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2 Answers

Im installing a TORK 1103.. Im hooking this timer up to 4 outlets.. I have a black, a white, a red and a copper wire.. my problem is I have to turn the timer on and off manually.. The clock is not...


Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)

ef19106.jpg
Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

743d806.jpg

Oct 06, 2010 | TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

1 Answer

I need wiring to install a new radio in my 2001 f-150 acc-battery-ground what are the colors ?


Abbreviations used :
CJB ( aka Central Junction Box, cab fuse panel )
BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, Engine Compartment fuse panel )

In the factory connector :

Hot at all times from CJB Fuse #1 is pin #9, light green w/ violet stripe wire
Hot in start from CJB Fuse #20 is pin 3, Red w/ black stripe wire
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Grounds in the connector :
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pin 16 black w/ light green stripe.
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I would stay away from using the black w/ light green stripe, I seem to recall those are the shields for the speaker pairs.

Bit late on the reply, just caught this one. If you don't have it don't, good luck

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1 Answer

Installing a pioneer and can't identify constant hot or accessory


who told you about a hot wire. all need to do is go to walmart, or any store who sells car stereo accessory. an d buy a wire harnet. then just follow the color code. 

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